41  st  Congress,  ) HOUSE  OF  BEPBESENTATIVES.  j Ex.  Dor. 
2d  Session.  ( ( No.  113. 


INTEBOCE AN IC  COMMUNICATION  AT  THE  AMEBICAN 

ISTHMUS. 


LETTER 


FROM 

THE  SECRETARY  OF  THE  HAY  Y 

IN  ANSWER  TO 

A resolution  of  the  House  calling  for  the  report  of  Bear-Admiral  Davis 
on  interoceanic  communication  at  the  American  Isthmus. 


February  8,  1870. — Referred  to  the  Committee  on  Naval  Affairs  and  ordered  to  he 

printed. 


Navy  Department, 
Washington,  February  2,  1870. 

Sir:  I Have  the  Honor  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  the  resolution  of 
the  House  of  Bepresentatives  passed  on  the  28tH  ultimo,  on  motion  of 
Air.  Stevens,  requesting  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy  to  furnish  to  the 
House  “any  reports  made  by  Bear- Admiral  C.  H.  Davis  upon  the  subject 
of  interoceanic  communication  across  the  American  Isthmus,  and  not 
heretofore  communicated  to  Congress;”  and,  in  compliance  therewith, 
to  transmit  the  accompanying  communication  addressed  to  the  depart- 
ment on  the  21st  ultimo  by  Bear- Admiral  Davis,  with  various  papers 
relating  to  the  province  of  1 >arien,  numbered  from  1 to  19. 

Very  respectfully, 

GEO.  M.  BOBESON, 

Secretary  of  the  Navy.. 

Hon.  James  G.  Blaine, 

Speaker  of  the  House  of  Bepresentatives. 


Bear-Admiral  Davis  to  Mr.  Bobcson. 

Washington  City,  D.  C., 

January  11,  1870’. 

Sir:  I have  the  honor  to  transmit  to  the  department  various  papers 
relating  to  the  province  of  Darien,  numbered  from  1 to  19,  inclusive. 

These  papers  are  translations  of  Spanish  official  documents,  running 
through  a period  of  more  than  thirty  years,  from  1757  to  1788.  They 
were  collected  in  Bogota,  in  or  about  the  year  1852,  by  Mr.  Thomas  C. 


2 INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 

\p<X'VY\ 

Vincent,  an  English  gentleman,  who  was  a member  of  the  “Darien  Ship- 
canal  Company,”  organized  in  London  about  that  time  by  Sir  Charles 
Fox,  Doctor  Black,  Edward  Hazelwood,  and  others,  for  constructing  a 
ship  canal  across  the  Isthmus  of  Darien;  and  they  are  duly  certified 
by  the  keeper  of  records  at  Bogota. 

The  failure  of  the  several  expeditions  for  the  survey  of  the  Isthmus 
of  Darien,  which  were  set  on  foot  about  that  time,  discouraged  this 
enterprise  and  led  to  the  dissolution  of  the  company.  Mr.  Vincent 
sent  the  papers  to  Mr.  F.  M.  Kelly,  of  New  York,  the  gentleman  who 
has  distinguished  himself  so  much  by  his  important  contributions  to 
the  solution  of  this  great  problem. 

These  documents  will  be  found  to  contain  much  of  the  valuable 
information  of  those  days  concerning  the  topography  of  this  part  of 
the  American  Isthmus,  its  population,  productions,  soil,  and  climate; 
its  aboriginal  inhabitants  and  their  intercourse  with  the  Spaniards;  the 
passes  through  the  Cordillera;  and  finally  its  gold  mines  and  placers. 
The  papers  are  arranged  chronologically;  no  other  order  suggested 
itself.  This  separates  papers  of  similar  import,  as  for  example  the 
diaries  of  Miila’s  two  journeys  across  the  Cordillera,  which,  indeed,  were 
actually  separate  in  time  ; also  the  papers  relating  to  the  construction 
*of  a road  from  Carolina),  south,  over  the  mountains. 

While  they  are  all  linked  together  by  one  common  topic,  the  province 
of  Darien,  they  are  not  otherwise  necessarily  connected,  and  their 
distribution  in  the  order  of  time  can  give  rise  to  no  confusion. 

Finally,  I may  observe  that  these  papers  possess  little  interest  for  any 
one  who  is  not  a patient  and  careful  student  of  the  whole  subject;  but 
by  such  a one  they  will  be  regarded  as  intrinsically  Valuable. 

I have  the  honor  to  be,  very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

C.  H.  DAVIS,  Rear-Admiral. 

Hon.  George  M.  Robeson, 

Secretary  of  the  Navy. 


List  of  old  Spanish  documents  relating  to  the  Isthmus  of  Darien. 

1.  u Report  transmitted  to  his  Majesty,  in  original  and  duplicate,  in 
obedience  to  the  royal  order  from  Buen  Retiro  on  the  2d  September, 
in  the  year  1751,  in  which  order  I am  directed  to  obtain  information 
concerning  the  province  of  Darien  and  the  progress  of  its  missions.” 
Miguel  Remon,  Porto  Velo,  July  29,  1757. 

2.  A letter  from  Darien,  praying  for  the  establishment  of  a fort  to 
protect  the  Spaniards  from  the  Indians  and  English  combined,  March, 
1774. 

3.  Declaration  made  before  the  governor,  Don  Andres  de  Ariza,  by 
Don  Fransisco  del  Castillo,  November  8,  1784rf. 

4.  Instructions  for  opening  a new  road,  traversing  the  mountain  chain, 
to  open  communication  with  Carolina,  April  8,  1786. 

5.  Diary  of  a military  expedition  under  Sergeant  Gabriel  Morales, 
July  10  to  25,  1786. 

6.  Extract  from  an  old  document  without  signature,  dated  1787. 

7.  Letter  from  Don  Josef  de  Matos  to  Don  Jose  Domas  y Valle,  April 
24, 1787. 

8.  Letter  from  Don  Andres  de  Ariza,  governor  of  Darien,  to  Sehor 
Don  Jose  Domas  y Valle,  governor  of  Panama,  May  9,  1787. 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  3 

9.  Letter  from  Domas  y Yalle  to  Don  Andres  de  Ariza,  May  9,  1787. 

10.  Extract  from  Villalba’s  report  on  tlie  Isthmus  of  Darien  relating 
to  the  mine  of  Cana,  September  17,  1787. 

11.  Milla’s  first  expedition,  January  27,  1788. 

12.  Fersen’s  journal  across  the  Cordillera,  February  16  to  27,  1788. 

13.  Don  Andres  de  Ariza  to  Don  Antonio  Caballero  y Gorgora,  March 
10,  1788. 

14.  Manuel  Garcia  y Villalba  to  Domas  y Valle,  March  15,  1788. 

15.  Ariza  to  Domas  y Valle,  March  15,  1788. 

16.  Milla’s  report  to  Domas  y Valle. 

17.  Domas  y Valle  to  the  Viceroy,  March  20.  1788. 

18.  Fransisco  de  Fersen  to  Don"  Antonio  Caballero  y Gorgora,  trans- 
mitting Milla’s  journal  of  his  second  journey  across  the  Cordillera,  March 
24,  1778. 

19.  Don  Antonio  Caballero  y Gorgora  to  Don  Andres  de  Ariza  on 
' communication  with  the  Indians,  March  26,  1788. 


No.  1. 

REPORT  OF  MIGUEL  REMON  TO  THE  KING  OF  SPAIN  IN  1757. 

Description  and  guide  of  the  province  of  San  Domingo , in  Darien , with  in- 
formation concerning  the  principal  rivers , ravines , and  settlements  of 
Spaniards  of  all  colors ; the  location  of  the  Indians  and  French;  their 
number , more  or  lessj  as  given  by  interpreters  and  persons  well  acquainted 
with  said  province . 

On  approaching  the  principal  river  of  this  province,  called  the  Tuyra, 
we  find  the  entrance  divided  by  a small  island  into  two  mouths,  the  right 
mouth  being  called  Boca  Chica,  and  the  left  Boca  Grande.  This  river 
runs  up  from  the  Pacific  ; ascending  it  half  a league  we  encounter  on  the 
left  the  mouth  of  the  River  Savana,  which  is  uninhabited.  Passing  up 
this  last-named  river,  three  days,  in  small  boats,  there  being  no  freshets, 
we  arrive  at  a place  from  which  we  can  cross,  on  foot,  in  half  a day,  to 
the  Fiver  Canazas,  which  belongs  to  the  jurisdiction  of  Chepo.  In  four 
days  we  can  cross  to  the  River  Chucunaque,  to  be  described  hereafter. 
These  three  rivers  have  their  sources  in  the  same  cordillera. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  River  Savana,  we  follow  up  the  principal  river, 
the  Tuyra,  about  three  leagues,  to  find  on  the  right  the  military  post 
of  Chapigana,  which  consists  of  a sergeant  and  eighteen  colored  soldiers 
of  the  militia  and  a chaplain.  The  fort  is  a strong  house,  with  four 
wooden  walls  and  a palm  leaf  roof,  fifteen  yards  long  and  ten  wide.  The 
inhabitants,  in  addition  to  some  married  soldiers  included  in  the  eighteen, 
comprise  five  permanent  families.  There  are  fifteen  houses  of  straw  and 
cane. 

From  Chapigana,  following  up  the  principal  river,  Tuyra,  for  the  distance 
of  a league  and  a half,  we  come  to  the  River  de  la  Maria,  and  ascending 
it  with  the  flood  tide  for  four  hours,  (there  is  regular  flood  and  ebb,) 
we  arrive  at  a town  containing  seven  married  people  and  three  unmar- 
ried, laborers  and  fighting  men,  all  colored.  From  this  town  it  is  a 
four  hours’  journey  by  land  to  the  place  called  Minas  Baxas,  and  to  some 
ravines  not  far  from  them.  Here  are  found  sixteen  married  and  five 
single  able-bodied  men,  and  eleven  who  are  over  seventy  years  of  age. 
All  of  them  are  colored  people — creoles  and  negroes — poor,  who  live  by 


4 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 


hunting  and  by  the  privilege  of  taking  gold  from  the  ravines;  their 
small  force  not  allowing  them  to  undertake  mining  operations. 

About  a quarter  of  a league  from  the  River  Maria,  following  up  the 
Tuyra,  the  River  de  Balsas  empties  into  the  former.  Continuing  up 
this  river  with  the  flood  tide  forty-eight  hours,  if  there  is  no  inundation, 
we  arrive  at  the  town  of  Balsas,  composed  of  Indians  belonging  to  the 
Dominicans,  with  a priest  of  that  order  among  them,  numbering  in  all 
twenty- two  families. 

On  this  same  River  of  Balsas,  at  gunshot  distance  from  this  Indian 
town,  is  the  town  of  Fucuti,  all  the  inhabitants  of  which  are  Spaniards 
of  dark  color.  The  town  contains  fifteen  married  persons  and  ten  single, 
all  of  them  able  men,  and  seven  old  men  of  seventy  years  of  age.  The 
employment  of  some  of  them  is  to  sow  grain  for  their  support ; of  others, 
to  wash  gold  in  the  ravines.  All  of  them  are  poor  people,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  one  who  is  their  captain;  he  has  five  male  and  five  female 
servants.  Their  houses  are  made  of  cane  and  straw. 

From  the  mouth  of  this  River  Balsas,  following  the  main  river,  Tuyra, 
with  the  tide,  a little  more  than  six  hours,  in  moderate-sized  pirogues, 
we  ascend  to  the  three  mouths  formed  by  the  Tuyra,  by  the  mouth  of 
the  River  Chucunaque  on  the  left,  and  by  the  Pirri,  a small  river,  on 
the  right. 

Ascending  this  river,  with  the  tide,  (the  Chucunaque,)  about  four 
leagues,  we  come  to  the  mouth  of  the  River  Yavisa  on  the  right,  which 
river  is  navigable  only  for  small  boats.  Ascending  the  three  first  reaches, 
we  find  the  town  Yavisa,  an  Indian  mission  with  twenty-three  fighting 
men,  brought  from  the  mountains  more  than  ten  years  ago  by  the  fathers 
of  the  Company  of  Jesus ; in  consequence  of  the  death  of  their  first 
padre,  they  are  without  instruction. 

Ascendiug  the  Chucunaque,  above  the  mouth  of  the  Yavisa,  a little 
less  than  a league,  we  meet  on  the  right  the  little  River  Tapisa,  at  present 
uninhabited. 

This  is  the  route  for  crossing  over  to  the  north  coast  at  a place  called 
Gandi,  or  Acanti ; thus  we  may  go  two  days  up  the  river  in  small  boats, 
when  we  leave  these  and  go  on  foot  two  days  more,  and  arrive  at  the 
foot  of  the  Cordillera.  It  occupies  another  day  to  ascend  and  descend 
to  the  head  of  the  River  Gandi,  which  empties  into  the  Alantic  Ocean, 
where  there  is  a town  of  forty  families,  mostly  Indians.  From  this  town 
it  requires  three  hours  in  small  boats  to  reach  the  Atlantic. 

Still  ascending  the  Chucunaque  from  the  Tapisa,  we  find,  at  a distance  of 
six  leagues  on  the  right,  the  mouth  of  the  little  River  Fuguesa ; and  as- 
cending this  three  days  in  a small  boat,  we  reach  a landing  where  there 
are  three  or  four  families  of  Indians.  In  one  day’s  march  from  this 
place,  we  traverse  the  Cordillera  and  arrive  at  the  little  River  Pito;  and 
following  this  on  foot  half  a day’s  march,  we  come  to  where  it  empties 
into  the  Atlantic,  about  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Darien,  nearly  in  front 
of  Bald  Rock. 

Again  ascending  the  Chucunaque  in  a small  boat  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Fuguesa,  we  arrive,  if  there  should  be  no  freshet,  in  two  days  at  the 
Fubugandi,  a moderate-sized  river  on  the  right;  and  ascending  that 
one  day,  we  arrive  at  two  mouths,  the  one  on  the  left  being  that  of  the 
little  River  Sueti.  Ten  families  reside  at  a little  distance  from  each  of 
the  openings.  To  go  to  the  north,  it  is  necessary  to  make  a journey  of 
two  leagues  by  land  from  the  Fubugandi  to  the  Sueti;  and  from  this,  a 
half  a league  carries  us  to  the  mouth  of  the  River  Salliti,  on  which  river 
live  two  families.  From  this  place,  keeping  on  foot  along  the  Sueti,  we 
arrive  in  half  a day’s  journey  at  the  foot  of  the  Cordillera.  From  this, 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  5 


it  is  a journey  of  an  hour  and  a half  to  the  Sucubti,  which  also  has  its 
rise  in  the  foot  of  the  Cordillera. 

Returning  again  to  the  Chucunaque,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Fubugandi, 
and  ascending  half  a day,  we  arrive  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sucubti,  just 
mentioned,  which  empties  on  the  right.  Going  two  days’ journey  up 
the  Sucubti  in  a little  boat,  we  reach  the  settlement  which  contains  about 
twelve  families.  There  empties  on  the  left  just  below  it  a small  stream 
called  Ipeti,  where,  at  a distance  of  a day’s  journey  from  its  mouth, 
there  are  eight  families. 

Following  up  the  course  of  the  river  from  the  town  of  Sucubti,  we  ar- 
rive in  half  a day  at  the  foot  of  the  Cordillera ; from  this  place  the  ascent 
to  the  summit  of  the  Cordillera  is  a journey  of  a half  an  hour,  more  or  less, 
where  we  see  the  Atlantic  Ocean ; from  this  summit  we  descend  in  half 
an  hour  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Agglatumate,  or  Aggre,  (Agla  ?) 

Following  down  this  river  on  foot  we  reach,  in  two  hours,  a town  which 
will  be  referred  to  in  another  place ; hence  in  a half  day’s  journey  on  the 
river,  we  arrive  at  its  mouth  in  Caledonia  Bay. 

Following  up  the  Chucunaque  from  the  mouth  of  the  Sucubti,  we  come 
in  one  day  to  the  little  stream  Moreti,  which  empties  on  the  right,  and 
ascending  that  one  day  we  find  some  eight  families.  To  cross  over  from 
here  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean  by  the  River  Navigandi,  opposite  the  Isle  of 
Pines,  requires  a laborious  journey  of  two  days. 

Starting  again  on  the  River  Chucunaque,  from  the  mouth  of  the  River 
Moreti,  at  about  a day’s  journey,  the  River  Arquiate  empties  itself  j at 
the  mouth  of  the  river  there  is  a town,  the  population  of  which  is  un- 
known on  accouut  of  the  absence  of  its  cacique,  Don  Iuando  dios  Alsedo, 
who  lived  there.  * 

After  ascending  the  Chucunaque,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Arquiate,  one 
day  in  small  canoes,  we  land,  and  in  two  days’ journey  across  we  arrive 
at  the  River  Cuiquinupti,  which  empties  into  the  Canazas,  a river  which 
belongs  to  Chepo.  Here  there  are  twenty  families. 

Not  having  anything  further  to  say  concerning  the  River  Chucunaque 
and  its  tributaries,  we  will  return  to  the  large  River  Tuyra,  as  follows : 

Ascending  the  great  River  Tuyra,  from  the  mouth  of  the  River  Chucu- 
naque a little  more  than  gunshot  distance,  the  middle-sized  River  Pirri  dis- 
embogues on  the  right ; and  going  up  this  river  two  of  its  reaches  or  turns, 
we  come  to  the  Real  de  Santa  Maria,  the  principal  military  post  in  this 
province  and  the  residence  of  its  governor. 

This  contains  a stronghold  of  four  equal  faces,  thirty  yards  each,  made 
of  the  same  combustible  material  as  the  one  of  Cliapigana  already  men- 
tioned. They  are  exposed  to  the  risk  of  being  easily  set  on  fire  both  by 
the  Indians,  by  means  of  prepared  arrows — a method  which  they  under- 
stand— and  by  the  carelessness  of  the  occupants.  Late  instances  have 
occurred  of  both.  In  the  disaster  and  confusion  which  follow,  we  must 
owe  our  safety  to  a retreat  by  a bridge,  which  ought  to  be  constructed 
with  sufficient  space  to  allow  of  our  marching  out  in  a square,  and 
occupying  ground  best  suited  for  defense.  All  these  risks  might  be 
avoided  by  making  the  roofs  of  tile,  which  would  be  economical  as  well 
as  durable.  The  palms  and  the  uprights  buried  in  the  moist  ground  rot 
so  rapidly,  that  it  is  necessary  to  renew  them  every  four  years. 

The  artillery  of  this  post  consists  of  nine  chambered  swivels,  which, 
after  the  first  fire,  expand  in  loading.  The  garrison  consists  of  a gov- 
ernor, a subaltern,  a sergeant,  a drummer,  a corporal,  two  artillerymen, 
and  thirty-five  soldiers  of  all  colors.  All  of  these  are  militia  except  six 
regulars  from  the  battalion  stationed  at  Panama.  Most  of  the  militia 
are  married.  The  staff  is  composed  of  a chaplain,  of  a storekeeper,  a 


6 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 


drummer,  a surgeon,  a leecher,  and  a nurse.  The  spare  fire-arms  are 
thirty-four  muskets  with  bayonets,  and  a corresponding  supply  of  powder, 
ball,  flints,  and  match-rope.  The  number  of  inhabitants,  besides  fourteen 
soldiers  married  in  the  country,  consists  of  fifteen  housekeepers,  who 
have  eight  sons  and  ten  slaves  capable  of  bearing  arms  ; all  of  them 
people  of  color  except  two  who  are  white  Europeans. 

There  are  some  thirty-seven  houses  of  straw  and  cane.  The  inhabi- 
tants are  employed  in  raising  plantains  and  maize,  and  in  hunting  and 
fishing ; by  which  means  they  acquire  a miserable  support. 

They  are  a rude  people,  on  account  of  their  being  surrounded  by  rivers, 
marshes,  and  low  grounds,  over  which  the  tide  rises  and  falls  to  such 
an  extent  that,  during  the  high  tide,  they  are  obliged  to  move  about  in 
boats.  Hence  arises  a great  deal  of  sickness,  which  does  not  exist  in 
other  towns  that  are  situated  on  higher  ground  and  are  free  from  water. 

Still  continuing  up  the  River  Pirri  two  more  turns,  we  come  to  the 
mission  tow  n of  Pirri,  with  a priest  of  the  Dominican  order,  and  contain- 
ing thirteen  families  from  neighboring  towns. 

Returning  to  the  Tuyra  and  ascending  it  a league  and  a half  above 
Pirri,  we  find  on  the  right  the  towm  of  Molineca,  an  Indian  mission, 
having  also  a Dominican  priest,  and  twenty -three  families  of  Indians; 
fighting  men.  Still  ascending  the  Tuyra  from  Molineca,  a distance  of 
four  leagues,  we  come  to  the  ravine  Allusa.  From  this  ravine  following 
up  the  Tuyra,  at  a distance  of  three  bends  of  the  river,  on  the  left-hand  side, 
the  Yapeti  empties  itself ; this  ravine  is  uninhabited.  Seven  bends  fur- 
ther on  the  left,  the  River  Capeti  empties  itself.  At  the  head  of  this 
river  navigation  for  small  boats,  we  land  to  go  to  the  dwelling  place  of 
the  Paparos  Indians  in  the  most  inaccessible  part  of  the  mountains. 
These  Indians  appear  to  be  mixed  with  negroes.  They  have  no  commu- 
nication wTith  other  Indians,  or  with  any  other  people  whatever,  on 
which  account  their  number  is  not  known,  but  it  is  estimated  to  be  less 
than  eighty  fighting  men. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Capeti,  following  the  Tuyra  seven  turns  further, 
there  empties  on  the  right  the  Ypelisa. 

This  river  was  ascended  in  small  boats  to  go  to  Cana,  a journey  of 
three  days — without  freshets — as  far  as  the  landing;  and  then  half  a 
day  by  .land  to  Cana.  Three  fighting  Indians  live  at  this  post,  who  pro- 
vide for  beasts  of  burden,  which  leave  this  post  for  the  regular  land 
route,  occupying  two  days  to  Cana,  the  population  of  w hich  consists  of 
people  of  color  and  Spaniards.  There  is  a military  post  and  a block-house, 
similar  to  that  described  at  Chapigana,  with  a sergeant  and  eight  men. 
The  inhabitants  of  Cana  number  twenty-one — all  people  over  fifty  years 
of  age  except  six,  who  are  vigorous  men ; the  captain,  Balthasa  de  Estrada, 
is  seventy  years  old ; they  are  all  poor.  Their  employment  is  to  sow 
grain  for  their  support,  and  to  wash  for  gold  in  the  ravines,  their  limited 
force  not  allowing  them  to  undertake  regular  mining  operations.  Their 
houses  are  like  the  others,  of  cane  and  straw. 

Following  up  the  Tuyra  again  from  the  mouth  of  the  valley  Ypelisa, 
at  a cable’s  distance  is  the  town  of  Cupe,  w hich  contains  forty  fighting 
Indians,  and,  like  Yavisa,  is  a Jesuit  mission. 

Still  ascending  the  Tuyra  above  Cupe  half  a day’s  journey  in  a boat, 
the  River  Pucurree  empties  itself  on  the  left,  and  a day’s  journey  up  the 
latter  leads  to  the  valley  of  the  Ypelisa.  There  is  a town  of  eight  fami- 
lies on  the  way  from  the  landing  here  to  the  valley  of  the  Maraquilla, 
a distance  of  two  leagues  by  boat  from  the  mouth  of  the  Ypelisa. 

From  Maraquilla  it  is  an  hour  and  a half  hour’s  journey  on  foot  to 
Parcaparca,  a small  valley  where  five  or  six  families  live.  This  river 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  7 


empties  into  the  Tiperri,  and  the  Tiperri  again  into  the  Palla.  A day’s 
journey  from  Tiperri  leads  to  the  head  of  the  Palla,  where  there  are  five 
or  six  families. 

Prom  this  place,  which  is  at  the  foot,  the  ascent  to  the  top  of  the  Cor- 
dillera occupies  two  hours,  and  the  descent  to  the  Araquilla  two  hours 
more.  The  latter  turns  to  the  north  and  ends  in  a lake  called  Tigre, 
from  which  lake  the  passage  is  made  in  one  day’s  sail  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Tarena,  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

Starting  again  from  the  Pucurree,  and  ascending  the  great  River  Tuyra 
a day’s  journey  in  a canoe,  we  arrive  at  the  river  Palla;  and  ascending 
this  two  days  in  a canoe,  we  find  a population  of  seven  or  eight  families; 
from  hence  it  is  two  days  to  the  foot  of  the  Cordillera,  passing  through 
two  valleys  named  Tracuna  and  Ocubquilla,  in  each  of  which  there  are 
two  families. 

From  the  landing  at  Palla  there  is  also  a road  to  the  right  by  the 
valley  Tuggule,  at  one  day’s  journey  from  which  dwell  two  families  of 
Indians;  from  hence,  keeping  always  to  the  right,  and  ascending  the 
Cordillera,  a day’s  journey  leads  to  the  head  of  the  River  Lio,  on  which, 
in  valleys  opening  into  it,  there  dwell  sixty  families,  more  or  less.  De- 
scending this  river,  two  days’  journey  leads  to  the  River  Atrato,  at  a 
point  one  day’s  journey  above  its  mouth. 

Ascending  the  Pucurree  from  the  mouth  of  the  Ypelisa  in  boats,  we 
arrive  at  the  valley  of  the  Apellac;  and  ascending  the  latter  one  day, 
we  reach  the  foot  of  the  Cordillera,  where  one  family  dwells. 

Mounting  the  Cordillera  on  foot,  we  come  in  a day’s  march  to  the  head 
of  the  Tigre,  a river  which  empties  into  a lake  of  the  same  name.  On 
this  river  dwell  twelve  families. 

THE  INHABITED  RIVERS  WHICH  EMPTY  INTO  THE  ATLANTIC  BE- 
TWEEN THE  CAYMAN  AND  SAN  BLAS,  AND  THEIR  POPULATION  NEAR 

THE  SEA. 

Coasting  along  from  Carthagena  to  Porto  Yelo,  the  first  Indians  met 
with  are  five  familes,  more  or  less,  who  live  on  the  River  Cayman, 
which  is  to  the  eastward  of  the  Gulf  of  Darien.  With  them  are  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  Frenchmen,  all  living  with  Indian  women,  by  whom  they 
have  many  children. 

They  have  numerous  cocoa  trees,  which  they  are  constantly  improving. 

This  river  is  navigable  for  pirogues  up  to  the  landing,  which  is  not 
far  off;  above  the  lauding,  the  navigation  is  in  small  boats. 

About  three  leagues  from  the  Cayman,  in  the  same  direction,  is  the 
mouth  of  the  Turba,  also  navigable;  and  on  this  river  are  about  five 
French  and  eight  Indian  families,  with  many  plantations  of  chocolate 
trees.  These  trees  increase  so  rapidly  that  it  was  not  possible  to  count 
their  number. 

From  here  to  the  Gulf  of  Choco,  which  is  seven  leagues  wide  in  the 
narrowest  part,  there  is  no  settlement,  on  account  of  the  liability  to 
overflow  and  the  number  of  mangrove  trees. 

After  passing  this  gulf  we  come  to  the  River  Tarena,  into  which  emp- 
ties another  river,  named  Araquilla,  six  leagues  from  the  mouth,  on  the 
left  hand,  as  has  been  already  described.  On  the  Araquilla  there  are 
some  thirty  families  of  Indians,  and  on  the  Tarena,  a day’s  journey 
above  its  mouth,  there  are  some  sixty  families  of  Indians  and  about 
thirteen  French,  who  also  plant  cocoa  trees. 

From  Tarena,  three  leagues  further  up,  empties  the  Titumate,  where 
there  are  about  seven  or  eight  families  of  Indians,  and  five  or  six  of 


8 INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 


French.  From  Titumate  a league  and  a half  further,  we  come  to  the 
Tinacante,  on  which  there  are  three  familes  of  Indians  and  one  of  French. 

From  Tinacante,  five  leagues  above,  is  the  mouth  of  the  Acanti,  the 
population  of  which  is  up  the  river  and  is  mentioned  in  the  description 
of  Tapisa.  This  consists  of  Indians,  but  upon  the  sea-shore  there  are 
some  dozen  Frenchmen. 

It  is  not  known  whether  there  are  cocoa  trees.  From  the  Acante,  six 
leagues  onward,  is  the  Biver  Pito,  on  which  reside  ten  families  of  Indians 
and  two  of  Frenchmen. 

Three  leagues  from  Pito  is  the  Biver  Caret,  where  some  three  or  four 
families  of  Indians  reside. 

Five  leagues  beyond  Caret  we  come  to  Caledonia,  where,  in  front  of 
the  place  where  the  Scotch  fortified  themselves,  there  is  a ravine  in 
which  Captain  Pancho  lives.  There  must  be  four  families  of  Indians 
here.  On  the  principal  river  of  Caledonia,  called  Aggre,  lives  Captain 
Miguel  with  forty  families  of  Indians,  besides  some  five  or  six  French- 
men. 

T.wo  leagues  above  Caledonia  is  the  valley  of  Sardi,  where  three  or 
four  Indian  families  dwell. 

Three  leagues  above  Sardi,  we  meet  with  the  Bavigandi,  up  which 
river  are  fifteen  families  of  Indians.  This  river  is  nearly  opposite  the 
Isle  of  Pines,  and  is  of  the  middle  size. 

Three  leagues  from  Bavigandi  is  the  Pudrugandi,  up  which  are  seven 
or  eight  Indian  families. 

Four  leagues  above  the  Pudrugandi  is  the  Mosquito  Biver,  which  has 
some  fifteen  Indian  families.  Two  leagues  above  the  Mosquito  is  the 
Matunagandi,  which  must  have  some  ten  families  of  Indians ; it  is  a small 
river.  Two  leagues  again  above  the  Matunagandi  is  the  Biver  Coco, 
which  must  have  more  than  forty  Indian  families. 

One  league  above  the  Coco  is  a small  valley  which  contains,  perhaps, 
three  or  four  families  of  Indians;  its  name  is  not  known.  Hence  a 
league  and  a half  further  up  the  coast  is  the  Biver  Monos,  which  has 
more  than  fifteen  families. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Biver  Monos,  four  leagues  further  up,  is  the 
Biver  Concepcion,  which  has  some  fifteen  Indian  families. 

Three  leagues  above  Concepcion  is  the  Biver  Playon  or  the  Biver  de 
las  Armas,  where  there  are  twenty  families  of  Indians,  more  or  less. 

Five  leagues  above  the  Biver  Playon  is  the  valley  of  Marzalagandi, 
which  has  some  four  families  of  Indians. 

From  Marzalagandi,  five  leagues  further,  is  the  Biver  Azucar,  concern- 
ing which  it  is  not  known  whether  it  is  at  present  inhabited. 

After  the  Biver  Azucar  follows  the  Biver  Diablo,  where  there  are  fif- 
teen families  of  Indians. 

Four  leagues  above  this  river  is  the  Biver  Cedro,  which  must  have 
twenty  families  of  Indians. 

Three  leagues  above  the  Cedro  is  the  Biver  Cardi,  which  has  a dozen 
families.  This  is  the  ultimate  limit  of  the  Indian  population  on  this 
side  of  the  Point  of  San  Bias  and  of  Mandinga  Bay. 

This  bay  is  very  capacious  and  is  suited  for  vessels  of  all  classes,  but 
good  pilots  are  necessary  on  account  of  its  numerous  islands  and  shoals. 

OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  PROGRESS  OF  THE  MISSIONS  AND  REASONS 

FOR  THEIR  NOT  INCREASING  SO  RAPIDLY  AS  WAS  EXPECTED,  AND 

THE  MEANS  BY  WHICH  ADDITIONS  MAY  BE  MADE  TO  THE  ROYAL 

REVENUE  AND  SUBJECTS. 

This  part  of  the  report  refers  to  a state  of  things  which  lias  passed 
away,  and  contains  recommendations  for  the  improvement  of  the  Indian 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  9 

population,  which  have  no  present  value.  It  will  be  interesting,  how- 
ever, to  give  a list  of  the  various  productions  of  the  soil  mentioned  as 
sources  of  wealth.  They,  are  cocoa  plantations,  indigo,  cotton,  honey, 
sugars,  woods  for  exportation,  balsams,  resin,  and  wax.  To  these  are 
added  tortoise  shell,  and  live  and  salted  turtles. 

The  Bay  of  Caledonia  is  spoken  of  as  the  most  important  on  the  coast 
for  vessels  of  large  burden.  Gold  is  said  to  be  universal  in  the  rivers 
and  valleys.  There  is  good  open  grazing  country. 

This  paper  also  speaks  of  the  mines  of  Cana  and  other  places,  which 
yielded  gold  in  large  quantities  until  the  laborers  were  driven  away  by  the 
invasion  of  Indians  from  the  Choco  and  of  foreigners. 

The  date  affixed  to  this  report  is  April  10,  1754. 

The  report  ends  with  a deposition  by  Captain  Juan  Raphael  de  Siman- 
cas,  interpreter,  resident  of  the  town  of  Cupe,  native  of  the  city  of  Car 
thagena,  who  was  dispatched  to  the  northern  coast,  to  give  an  account 
of  the  number  of  French  adventurers  living  on  that  coast,  and  of  their 
cocoa  plantations,  and  of  the  vessels  which  take  in  cargoes  there.  A 
part  of  this  information  is  embodied  in  the  preceding  translation. 

The  title  of  this  report  given  at  the  end  is  as  follows : 

Copy  of  a report  transmitted  to  liis  Majesty,  in  original  and  duplicate,  in  obedience 
to  the  royal  order  from  Buen  Retiro,  on  the  second  of  September,  in  the  year  seven- 
teen hundred  and  fifty-one ; in  which  report  I am  directed  to  obtain  information  con- 
cerning the  province  of  Darien  and  the  progress  of  its  missions. 

MIGUEL  REMON. 

Porto  Yelo,  July  29,  1757. 

In  a note  appended  to  his  report,  Remon  states  that  the  number  of 
Frenchmen  and  of  cocoa  plantations  had  considerably  increased  during 
the  last  three  years. 


No.  2. 

A letter  from  Darien,  praying  for  the  establishment  of  a fort  to  protect  the 

Spaniards  from  the  Indians  and  English  combined , dated  March , 1774. 

SENor:  I am  desirous  that  the  agriculture  of  this  kingdom  should 
flourish,  and  that  its  inhabitants  should  cultivate  the  rich  lands  in  which 
it  abounds.  These  lands  are  now  either  abandoned,  or  possessed  by 
uncivilized  Indians,  whom  it  is  impossible  to  bring  under  subjection,  or 
restrain  from  acts  of  violence  against  those  who  have  ventured  to  culti- 
vate the  lands  in  their  neighborhood. 

I have,  therefore,  meditated  upon  the  view  taken  in  the  course  of  last 
summer  by  the  Brigadier  A.  de  Arrivaldo,  in  regard  to  the  construction 
in  the  province  of  Darien  of  a fort  already  projected  and  approved  by 
his  Majesty.  The  site  of  this  fort  is  on  the  River  Cayman,  which  dis- 
charges itself  on  the  east  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Darien.  This  defense 
would  enable  us  to  settle  that  most  fertile  district,  having  so  beautiful 
a climate,  where  in  other  times  rich  crops  of  cocoa  have  been  gathered. 
It  would  also  be  beneficial  in  attracting  gradually  the  rebel  Indians  of 
that  province,  now  linked  with  the  English,  who  carry  on  trade  with 
them  and  whom  they  supply  with  the  fish  and  meat  abounding  on  their 
coasts.  We  suffer  not  only  from  the  want  of  agriculture  in  those  parts, 
but  also  from  the  freedom  with  which  foreigners  trade  with  the  Indians. 
The  garments  of  the  latter  are  of  English  manufacture,  a fact  ascertained 
by  the  prisoners  taken  in  the  waters  of  the  river  Sinee.  This  would  not 
happen  if  Cayman  were  fortified. 

God  protect  your  excellency.  Santa  Fe,  March  31,  1774 

Brigadier  F.  JULIAN  ARRIAJA. 


10  INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 


No.  3. 

CASTILLO’S  DECLARATION. 

Declaration  made  before  the  governor , Don  Andres  de  Ariza , by  Don 
Fransisco  del  Castillo , wfto  is  more  than  seventy  years  of  age,  a native  of  the 
old  village  of  Pine , in  the  province  of  Darien , and  an  inhabitant  of  the 
Indian  village  called  Tichiche. 

He  was  suffered  by  thd  Indians  to  come  here,  on  the  8th  day  of 
November,  in  the  year  1784,  in  order  to  give  information  concerning  the 
roads  which  he  has  traversed  from  the  coasts  of  the  Mulatas  on  the 
north  and  from  the  district  of  Chepo  on  the  south.  He  gives  a minute 
relation  of  his  mode  of  proceeding,  the  same  that  he  has  previously  given 
extrajudicially  to  the  governor. 

He  states  that  he  has  frequently  passed  from  Agla,  or  Caledonia,  to 
the  territory  of  this  province,  coming  direct  from  Sucubti,  which  is  the 
easiest  and  shortest  road. 

On  the  same  day,  November  8,  Juan  Raphael  Simancas  appeared 
before  the  said  governor,  who,  after  stating  that  he  was  a native  of 
Carth  agena,  of  Indian  parentage,  and  after  relating  the  various  casual- 
ties that  had  happened  to  him  in  the  course  of  his  long  life  of  seventy- 
five  years,  on  being  interrogated  and  requested  to  give  an  account  as 
an  experienced  guide  of  that  country,  of  the  route  from  Caledonia  to 
the  southern  district  of  this  province,  stated  that  in  this  district  there 
is  a small  river  called  Agla,  by  the  margins  of  which  we  can  ascend  for 
a distance  of  a little  more  than  an  hour’s  journey ; and  then  following 
the  mountain  course  for  a space  of  about  four  or  five  hours,  we  arrive 
at  the  sources  of  the  River  Sucubti,  named  Miraflores,  which  discharges 
its  waters  southward ; and  proceeding  down  that  River  Sucubti  by  boat 
half  a day,  or  if  by  land  a whole  day,  we  arrive  at  the  principal  river  of 
the  province,  called  the  Chucunaque,  and  thence  in  six  hours  from 
Chucunaque  we  may  arrive  at  Savana. 


No.  4. 

Instructions  to  be  observed  by  the  commandant  of  the  new  establishment  of 
Puerto  Principe , situate  south  of  the  Cordillera  of  the  Andes  in  the  province 
of  Darien  in  order  to  effect  the  opening  of  the  new  road  traversing  the 
mountain  chain  and  securing  communication  with  the  establishment  of 
Carolina  on  the  northern  sea-coast. 

If  the  governor  of  the  province,  Lieutenant  Colonel  Hon  Andres  de 
Ariza,  should  recover  from  his  present  sickness,  he  will  be  the  person  to 
carry  out  these  instructions;  otherwise  they  will  be  executed  by  the 
commandant  of  Carolina,  Hon  Louis  Carrera,  captain  of  the  grenadiers 
of  the  regiment  of  the  princess,  who  will  employ  for  the  land  works  the 
captain  in  ordinary  of  engineers  Hon  Juan  Ximines  Honoze,  and  the 
parties  appointed  for  that  purpose  by  Ariza. 

It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  to  take  advantage  of  the  first  oppor- 
tunity which  may  offer  for  the  opening  of  the  road,  that  is  to  be  made, 
in  order  to  connect  the  establishment  of  Carolina  with  that  of  Principe; 
therefore  I have  named  the  officers  and  troops  of  the  regiment  of  the 
princess,  whom  I have  sent  forward,  in  order  that,  on  this  side,  the 
requisite  operations  may  be  immediately  begun. 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  11 


I inclose  copies  of  the  report  of  the  survey  of  the  line  of  country 
which  the  commandant  of  the  country  has  effected  on  the  northern  side 
in  the  Carolina  district,  from  that  establishment  to  the  summit  of  the 
Cordillera  between  the  two  rivers  Aglasenicua  and  Aglatromate,  which 
is  the  lowest  point  in  the  range.  At  this  place  a conspicuous  landmark 
ought  to  be  visible  from  a distance;  the  commandant  will  therefore 
order  one  to  be  made,  by  leaving  a solid  clump  of  trees  and  cutting 
down  the  others  in  the  neighborhood.  By  means  of  this  a direct  line 
may  be  run  from  the  mouth  of  the  Sucubti  to  the  summit  of  the  Cordillera, 
there  to  unite  with  the  road  from  Carolina.  Since  the  parties  in  the 
field  must  direct  their  course  so  as  to  come  out  at  the  head  sources  of 
the  Agla,  and  since  the  landmarks  will  be  established  at  the  spot 
selected  by  the  commandant  of  the  north  coast,  with  reference  to  the 
declivity  of  the  rising  ground  at  that  spot,  the  parties  ought  to  direct 
their  course  toward  that  point. 

If  they  should  not  see  the  mark  on  leaving  the  mouth  of  the  Sucubti, 
or  should  not  see  it  at  all,  they  will  take  what  they  may  deem  to  be  the 
direct  course  for  the  course  of  the  Agla.  If  landmarks  are  seen  and 
reached,  the  two  commandants  will  decide  upon  the  opening  of  the  two 
lines  of  road  from  Principe  to  the  summit  of  the  Carolina,  and  Carolina 
to  the  same  point. 

Delineating  both  of  the  said  lines  of  road  upon  the  same  scale,  they 
will  reconcile  any  irregularity  or  error  which  may  be  found  therein,  by 
their  own  knowledge  and  experience,  and  by  the  necessities  of  the  case. 

The  two  commandants  having  come  to  a decision  and  agreement 
upon  the  point,  the  opening  of  the  road  shall  be  immediately  commenced 
and  proceeded  with  in  the  manner  in  which  it  is  to  remain.  The  work 
is  intrusted  to  the  care  of  both,  in  order  that,  should  they  think  it 
advisable,  each  one  of  them  may  carry  into  execution  the  line  from  said 
landmark  at  the  summit  of  the  Cordillera  to  the  border  of  the  estab- 
lishment under  his  own  command;  or  they  may,  by  uniting  forces,  exe- 
cute the  work.  This  last  appears  to  be  the  most  natural  way  of  proceed- 
ing and  the  most  advantageous ; thus  descending  from  the  summit  of 
the  Cordillera  to  Carolina,  until  they  are  within  reach  of  provisions, 
ammunition,  and  other  necessaries,  thus  using  the  road  itself  to  the 
summit  of  the  Cordillera  for  the  execution  of  the  other  portion  from  the 
same  point  to  Principe. 

Carthagena  April  8,  1786. 


No.  5. 

Diary  kept  by  the  Sergeant  Gabriel  Morales , leader  and  commander  against 
the  Indians  of  these  mountains , in  company  with  the  Sergeants  Miguel 
Antonio  Delgado  and  Miguel  Quintana , for  the  expedition  which  the 
Governor  Lieutenant  Don  Andres  de  Ariza , lieutenant  colonel , placed 
under  our  care , with  a troop  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  foot  soldiers. 

1786,  Jidy  10. — At  seven  o’clock  in  the  morning  we  took  our  departure 
from  the  new  establishment  of  Principe,  directing  our  steps  toward  the 
Biver  Moreti,  which  discharges  its  waters  into  that  of  the  Chucunaque, 
and  having  arrived  at  Yegunti,  we  found  the  Biver  Sabanas  that  was  to 
be  passed  much  swollen  in  consequence  of  the  heavy  falls  of  rain  that 
had  taken  place  on  that  and  the  previous  day,  and  having  waded  it  with 


12  INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 

a great  deal  of  trouble,  we  came  to  a bait  upon  the  opposite  bank,  from 
whence  I dispatched  to  Principe  four  men  who  had  fallen  sick. 

July  11. — The  day  broke  with  rain,  for  which  reason  we  did  not  set 
out  on  our  march  until  after  eight  o’clock,  and  we  came  to  a halt  about  San 
Matias  in  consequence  of  the  heavy  storm  of  rain  that  appeared  to  be 
coming  on;  by  reason  of  the  bad  weather  we  spent  two  days  upon  a 
journey. of  one;  we  placed  our  sentinels  in  advance  at  the  poiuts  of  the 
compass  as  usual,  in  order  to  secure  ourselves  against  enemies. 

July  12. — Again,  because  it  had  been  raining  throughout  the  greater 
part  of  the  night  and  also  during  the  day,  we  started  rather  late  at  about 
nine  o’clock,  and  we  only  reached  the  resting  place  of  Tigre,  because  the 
quebradas  were  much  swollen;  we  then  passed  the  night,  previously 
placing  our  sentinels. 

July  13. — We  set  out  on  our  march  at  six  o’clock  in  the  morning,  and 
at  one  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  we  heard  nine  reports  of  cannon  from 
the  direction  of  Carolina;  and  we  reached  the  resting  place  of  Guayabel 
at  two ; here  we  made  a halt  to  cook  our  food  and  sleep,  and  posted  our 
sentinels  to  prevent  a surprise  by  enemies. 

July  14. — We  commenced  our  march  at  six  in  the  morning;  the  short 
heavy  showers  of  rain  continued,  and  we  only  reached  the  “huts  of  Eem- 
elas”  to  sleep ; we  placed  our  sentinels  as  usual. 

July  15.- — Continuing  our  march  at  one  o’clock  in  the  day,  we  arrived 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Moreti,  where  our  governor  in  September  of  last 
year  had  made  an  intrenched  encampment,  the  stockades  of  which  had 
been  destroyed  by  the  enemy,  some  of  them  thrown  into  the  river,  and 
the  house  or  palm  hut  that  was  there  razed  and  burned ; we  retired  thence 
to  pass  that  night  on  the  ridge  that  is  situated  a swivel  gunshot  behind 
that  position.  In  order  that  the  enemies  might  not  hear  a rumor  of  our 
party,  we  carefully  examined  the  whole  of  the  surrounding  neighborhood, 
and  the  only  news  there  received  was  that  eight  days  before  the  rebels 
had  cut  off  a Guinea  girl. 

July  16. — At  six  in  the  morning  we  passed  the  Eiver  Chucunaque  by 
the  ford  that  is  on  the  side  below  the  encampment;  and  proceeded 
upward  along  the  marsh  lands  of  Eiver  Moreti  as  far  as  the  Carmen 
resting  place,  which  is  in  an  abandoned  site  of  plantain  trees,  where  by  the 
order  of  our  governor  we  last  year  left  under  cover  of  a hut  a flag,  a 
small  flask  of  brandy,  a bundle  of  tobacco,  and  some  small  copper  pans; 
the  whole  as  a sign  of  friendship,  because,  at  that  time,  he  did  not  know 
of  the  revolt  at  Carolina ; we  found  none  of  these,  the  enemy  having 
carried  all  off. 

In  this  locality  we  established  our  ambuscades  in  order  to  ascertain  if 
we  could  suprise  any  of  the  rebels,  for  which  this  place  is  advantageous 
from  its  having  in  front  a high  wall  that  cannot  be  scaled. 

July  17. — We  left  this  place  at  about  ten  o’clock  in  the  day,  because 
the  short  but  heavy  showers  did  not  cease  and  we  continued  our  route 
along  the  Eiver  Moreti,  up  tbe  stream,  which  had  become  much  swollen; 
we  passed  thirteen  small  quebradas,  which  discharge  their  waters  into 
this  river,  and  a small  plantation  of  plantain  trees,  apparently  a recent 
one  of  about  six  months’  standing ; and  beyond  it,  but  further  up  the 
stream,  we  came  to  a halt  afc  a point  that  is  at  the  skirt  of  a mountain 
which  the  Chocoe  Indians  went  to  examine,  but  where  they  found  no 
ascent. 

July  18. — We  took  our  departure  from  that  place,  (heavy  showers  of 
rain  still  continuing,  which  inconvenienced  us  very  considerably,)  and 
followed  up  the  course  of  the  Eiver  Moreti  in  order  to  ascertain  if  there 
were  any  enemies  on  it.  We  passed  three  craggy  hills  with  their  que- 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  13 


bradas,  and  upon  proceeding  down  tbe  last  one  we  met  with  another  que- 
brada  where  there  was  a hut  decayed  by  age,  having  stood  there  more  than 
three  years.  Upon  proceeding  we  met  with  a large  field  of  stubble,  where 
there  were  also  some  old  earthen  pots. 

We  continued  our  route  further,  and  upon  a small  plot  of  rising  ground 
we  found  another  stubble  field,  and  descending  to  the  margin  of  the  river 
we  reached  a glade  (valley)  or  old  bed  of  a river  where  we  came  to  a halt, 
posting  double  sentinels  because  we  considered  ourselves  in  the  midst 
of  the  enemy. 

July  19. — We  pushed  out  into  the  same  neighborhood  various  ambus- 
cades and  stations  upon  the  river,  which  from  thence  upward  was  not 
navigable  for  small  boats,  nor  even  up  to  that  point,  save  with  great 
trouble.  Several  spies  were  sent  out  to  see  if  any  report  or  trace  of  the 
enemy  could  be  obtained,  but  without  finding  any  sign  of  them.  There 
was  only  a plantation  of  plantain  trees,  from  which  the  enemy  a few 
days  before  had  gathered  the  fruit,  and  our  people  found  but  little  left. 
We  did  not  proceed  further  toward  the  sources  of  the  stream,  because 
its  marshy  lands  would  not  allow  of  our  passing  them;  nor  did  we  cross 
the  river  in  consequence  of  the  numerous  large  rocks  across  its  bed; 
by  this  we  deemed  ourselves  to  be  in  the  mountain  chain. 

July  20. — We  determined  upon  crossing  over  almost  at  the  foot  of  the 
chain  toward  the  river  Sucubti.  We  passed  three  hills  and  the  que- 
bradas  and  many  agares  or  American  aloes.  We  found  a track  by  which 
the  enemies  ascend,  which  the  Sergeant  Gabriel  Morales,  Miguel  Quintana, 
and  ten  men  followed,  directing  their  steps  toward  some  high  hills.  At 
about  one  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  they  returned,  and  continuing  our 
march  we  reached  a quebrada  that  discharges  its  waters  into  the  river 
Sucubti,  and  we  supposed  it  the  quebrada  of  Yanuti.  Upon  it  there 
was  a stubble  field  of  the  previous  year,  and  a large  jar  that  might  con- 
tain about  two  hundred  ears  of  maize,  two  good  earthen  pots,  and  a 
pirogue  (canoe)  about  half  finished  but  abandoned.  We  then  came  to  a 
halt  in  order  to  pass  the  night,  having  first  taken  the  precaution  to  beat 
the  brush,  because  we  inferred  that  the  rebels  might  live  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. 

July  21. — By  observing  silence  and  by  other  precautions  that  were 
requisite,  deeming  ourselves  in  the  midst  of  the  enemy  and  that  we  should 
catch  them  by  proceeding  down  the  stream,  we  continued  with  much 
caution  along  the  bank  of  the  quebrada,  which  it  was  ascertained  was 
navigated  by  the  enemy,  as  the  channel  was  clear,  and  had  at  intervals 
landing  places,  poles,  and  lines,  to  Avhich  they  moored  their  pirogues, 
(canoes.) 

We  found  upon  the  banks  of  the  quebrada  many  plantations  of  aguave, 
and  in  one  of  them  a clear  road  by  which  they  had  drawn  up  a small 
canoe.  Proceeding  further  on,  the  Sergeant  Gabriel  ascended  a tree, 
and  thence  descried  the  Biver  of  Sucubti,  toward  which  we  directed  our 
steps,  now  ascending  one  hill  and  then  skirting  another,  at  the  foot  of 
which  last  flowed  the  river,  having  come  upon  it  two  turns  further  down 
than  the  quebrada,  which,  as  I have  stated,  seemed  to  us  to  be  that  of 
Yanuti.  On  it  we  did  not  meet  with  any  further  signs  of  its  being 
inhabited  than  those  already  mentioned.  The  distance  traveled  from 
the  River  Moreti  to  that  of  Sucubti  is  scarcely  half  a day’s  journey.  We 
came  to  a halt  that  day  opposite  to  a high  wall  that  was  on  the  other  side  of 
the  river.  We  took,  however,  the  requisite  precautions  in  order  not  to 
be  surprised  in  consequence  of  our  own  exposure;  and,  also,  in  order 
not  to  be  heard,  so  that  we  might  surprise  them. 


14  INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 


July  22. — We  took  our  departure  from,  tlie  said  resting  place,  with 
scouts  thrown  forward,  in  order  not  to  come  unexpectedly  upon  the  enemy  ; 
not  a vestige  of  them  was  found  in  that  vicinity.  We  directed  our  steps 
toward  the  mouth  of  the  Sucubti,  where  Don  Luis  Carrua  had  his  encamp- 
ment; passing  two  large  mountains  aud  several  small  ones  on  both  sides 
of  the  river,  and  at  the  lower  part  of  these  we  came  up  a very  large  que- 
brada  which  flowed  in  the  direction  of  the  Moreti.  Entering  it  we  came 
to  a harbor  and  found  in  it  a clear  passage  with  six  lines  where  pirogues 
had  been  moored ; on  the  other  side  was  a clear  pathway  which  when 
followed  leads  in  the  direction  of  the  River  Chucunaque,  serving  as  a 
roundabout  way  for  the  enemy  to  avoid  the  winding  of  the  Sucubti. 

The  quebrada  is  not  navigable  and  it  appears  that  the  enemy  only  go 
there  to  secrete  their  canoes.  We  left  this  road  because  we  deemed  it 
fruitless  to  follow  it,  and  continuing  our  journey  down  the  Sucubti,  we 
fell  in  with  a very  large  assemblage  of  huts,  the  greater  part  of  which 
had  been  carried  away  by  a freshet  in  the  river.  We  then  came  to  a 
halt  in  order  to  pass  the  night,  throwing  forward  sentinels  as  usual. 

July  23. — We  left  our  resting  place,  still  annoyed  by  the  heavy  showers 
of  rain,  and  journeying  down  the  river  along  the  banks  of  the  Sucubti, 
we  came  to  a tree  of  “Lorono  or  Oampano,”  fit  for  a large  canoe,  eight 
yards  in  circumference  and  twenty-two  in  length.  Immediately  after- 
ward we  reached  the  large  plantain  plantations  of  the  enemy,  which 
were  surrounded  by  the  troops,  some  of  them  having  penetrated  into 
the  center  to  seek  the  enemy,  who,  if  they  fled,  would  fall  into  our  hands. 

Nothing  was,  however,  found,  but  it  was  ascertained  that  the  enemy 
had  been  in  the  plantation  to  gather  fruit  about  six  or  eight  days  pre- 
vious. In  consequence  of  this,  an  order  was  given  that  the  whole  troop, 
leaving  the  requisite  advanced  guards,  should  gather  all  that  was  needful 
for  themselves,  and  leave  none  for  the  enemy.  We  left  this  place  and  at  a 
short  distance  therefrom  we  found  the  commencement  of  the  road  that  was 
being  opened  in  the  month  of  April,  in  order  that  the  columns  under 
the  command  of  Don  Luis  Carrua  might  pass.  His  abandoned  encamp- 
ment was  at  the  distance  of  about  one  league  ; here  we  came  to  a halt 
and  encamped,  taking  the  necessary  precaution  also,  that  in  descending 
the  mountain  pass,  we  explored  the  whole  territory  of  the  enemy.  We 
inferred  that  they  have  either  abandoned  the  district  and  gone  to  the 
other  rivers,  or  have  secreted  themselves  all  at  once  in  the  craggy  and 
unknown  fortresses  of  the  mountain  ridge. 

July  24. — We  took  our  departure  from  the  line  of  that  road  and 
arriving  in  sight  of  the  stronghold  where  Don  Luis  encamped,  we  fell  in 
with  the  skull  of  a human  being  stuck  upon  the  point  of  a wild  cane. 
It  was,  without  doubt,  some  unfortunate  captive  from  the  north,  because 
from  the  south  we  have  not  fallen  in  with  any  human  being,  either  alive 
or  dead.  We  took  away  the  skull  and  buried  it  in  another  place.  We 
passed  over  to  the  island  where  the  stronghold  had  been  made,  and  we 
found  the  huts  burned  down  and  the  greater  part  of  the  stockade 
destroyed.  The  three  grindstones  that  we  there  buried,  the  enemy  had 
dug  and  carried  away.  We  proceeded  on  by  the  royal  road  opened  as 
far  as  Principe,  and  at  a quarter  of  a league  distant  therefrom,  we  en- 
camped to  pass  the  night,  taking  the  requisite  precautions. 

July  25. — At  twelve  o’clock  in  the  day  we  entered  Principe,  and  pre- 
sented ourselves  to  our  governor,  delivering  to  him  this  diary,  and  inform- 
ing him  verbally  that  all  the  persons  attached  to  the  expedition  had 
not  returned  in  perfect  health  in  consequence  of  the  terribly  unfavora- 
ble weather  which  they  had  had  unceasingly  encountered,  there  not 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  15 


having  been  one  fine  clay.  All  had  used  their  best  endeavors  to  fall  in 
with  the  enemy,  and  had  returned  dissatisfied  and  not  having  succeeded. 

GABRIEL  MORALES. 

[At  the  request  of  the  Sergeant  Miguel  Antonio  Delgrado,  and  Miguel 
Quintana.] 

Puerto  del  Principe. 


No  6.. 

Extract  from  an  old  document  without  signature , dated  1787. 

By  decree  of  the  24th  January,  his  excellency  ordered  that,  in  order  to 
effect  the  passage  of  our  troops  from  the  south  to  the  north,  a road 
should  be  opened  from  Principe  to  the  mouth  of  the  River  Sucubti,  upon 
the  Chucunaque,  and  to  erect  a fort  upon  the  hill  called  Betanzos,  which 
is  situated  at  an  equal  distance  from  each  port.  Furthermore,  that  two 
small  villages  with  some  defenses  should  be  established  between  Principe 
and  the  fort,  and  between  the  latter  and  the  Chucunaque,  placing  these 
garrisons  in  such  a manner  that  they  might  reciprocally  defend  one 
another,  and  be  provided  with  provisions. 

The  general-in-chief  of  Panama  communicated  this  decree  to  Don  Jose 
Matos,  who  is  acting  as  governor  pro  tempore  in  Darien  and  who  will  be 
commander-in-chief  of  the  expedition  from  Principe  to  Carolina  by  way 
of  Chucunaque ; ordering  that  the  engineer  Don  Juan  Donoso  accompany 
him  in  order  to  superintend  the  works.  Matos  and  Donoso  represent  to 
the  general  commandant-in-chief  that  the  road  will  be  much  more  ad- 
vantageous if  opened  from  Yavisa,  the  capital  of  Darien,  to  the  afore- 
said Sucubti,  upon  the  grounds  that  the  distance  is  less,  the  waters,  the 
climate,  and  the  situation  better,  the  population  acclimated,  and  that 
there  is  abundance  of  maize,  plantains,  yuca,  and  Adam’s  needles  for 
provisions. 

These  advantages,  it  is  said,  are  not  to  be  met  with  in  Principe,  while 
the  country  leading  to  Sucubti  is  smooth  and  the  ground  tolerably  level. 

The  commandant-in-chief  transmits  this  representation  to  the  Governor 
Ariza,  now  sick  at  Panama,  for  his  information  and  government.  Ariza 
firing  denies  the  pretended  advantages  of  the  road  from  Yavisa  on  all 
grounds;  he  prefers  that  from  Principe;  though  from  his  being  sick,  he 
does  not  give  his  reasons. 


No.  7. 

Don  Andres  de  Ariza  to  Domas  y Valle. 

I have  just  received  your  honor’s  esteemed  letter,  dated  this  day,  in 
which  you  are  pleased  to  inclose  to  me  two  letters,  one  the  statement  made 
by  the  lieutenant  governor’s  aide,  Don  Josef  de  Matos,  dated  24th  April, 
soliciting,  for  satisfactory  reasons  to  himself,  change  of  situation  of  the 
new  establishment  t/om  Principe  to  the  remote  port  of  Yavisa  ; the  other 
from  the  engineer,  Don  Juan  Donoso,  dated  yesterday,  agreeing  with 
Matos,  but  advancing  professional  reasons  (as  an  engineer)  more  absurd 
than  those  of  Matos.  These  letters  show  an  unfortunate  desire  in  the 
men  of  the  present  day,  when  intrusted  with  a slight  commission,  to  con- 
sider themselves  the  Ajmllos  of  science,  and  set  aside  plans  well 


16  INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 


matured.  Your  honor  is  pleased  to  inform  me  that  in  the  brief  space  of 
time  between  to-day  and  to-morrow,  I am  to  reply  to  the  particulars  of 
these  two  statements,  in  order  that  they  may  be  ready  for  transmission 
to  his  excellency  the  viceroy,  who  will  also  be  orally  informed  of  every- 
thing in  order  to  make  up  his  final  decision.  As  your  honor  saw  me 
yesterday  , and  you  well  know  that  I had  been  confined  to  my  bed  for 
more  than  four  months,  being  completely  prostrated,  so  that  my  life  has 
been  preserved  by  drinks  only,  it  is  impossible  for  me  to  comply  with 
this  request.  The  nature  of  the  evidence  in  this  case  is  such,  that  in 
order  to  expose  the  fallacies  of  the  extraordinary  propositions  from  these 
parties,  and  to  satisfy  all  persons,  my  reply  must  be  very  diffuse.  And 
further,  what  his  excellency  was  pleased  to  command  in  his  previous 
communication  of  March  21  has  been  ordered  and  approved  by  the 
King,  and  it  cannot  be  altered  without  mature  consideration  after  the 
survey  has  been  made. 

If  upon  the  margin  of  the  Chucunaque,  a little  above  or  a little  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Sucubti,  there  should  be  some  firm  ground  on  this  side, 
where  the  danger  of  the  overflow. may  be  avoided,  and  which  may  be 
nearer  to  Betanzos,  (for  I am  certain  there  is  some  a little  higher  up,) 
neither  Donoso  nor  any  other  tyro  schemer  ought  to  be  listened  to;  the 
desire  of  these  people  is  merely  to  gain  reputation  even  at  the  expense 
of  arrangements  made  with  prudence  and  experience.  I expect  from 
the  known  justice  of  your  honor  that  my  requestmade  yesterday  in  thepres- 
ence  of  Donoso,  relative  to  the  verbal  conference  that  we  had  together,  may 
be  forwarded  to  his  excellency  for  his  superior  consideration.  In  this  con- 
ference throughout  Donoso  was  convicted  by  his  own  arguments.  I say 
this  apart  from  the  overflow,  which  is  met  before  reaching  the  Chucunaque, 
and  of  which  I made  mention  of  the  14th  and  18th  ultimo ; although 
this  defect  may  be  remedied  if  good  ground  is  found.  There  only  remains 
the  doubt  whether  the  water  of  the  Principe  is  of  good  quality  and  of 
sufficient  quantity;  but  in  order  to  clear  up  this  doubt  I requested  that 
your  honor  would  order  a couple  of  jars  full  of  the  water  which  flows 
not  from  the  valleys  of  that  district,  but  from  the  high  springs  entering 
into  them,  which  water  does  not  act  on  soap  like  that  of  the  valleys 
when  it  is  brackish;  I also  request  your  honor  (as  I did  in  Donoso’s  pres- 
ence) to  be  pi  eased  to  inform  his  excellency  beforehand  that  I offer  to 
prove  by  unexceptionable  witnesses  how  speciously  fallacious  were  the 
statements  of  these  parties,  read  by  your  honor  in  my  presence  and 
Donoso7s.  I make  this  offer  in  order  that  his  excellency  may  not  incau- 
tiously be  misled  by  them. 

God  protect  your  excellency  many  years.  Panama,  May  9,  1787. 

ANDRES  DE  ARIZA. 

Senor  Don  Jose  Domas  y Yalle. 


No.  8. 

Josef  de  Matos  to  Domas  y Valle. 

Sir:  Notwithstanding  what  I have  explained  to  you  under  this  day’s 
date,  in  my  official  letters  in  reply  to  the  orders  of  your  honor,  consid- 
ering the  obligation  that  I am  placed  under  to  lay  before  you  whatever 
may  best  contribute  to  the  service  of  his  Majesty,  and  in  pursuance  of 
my  duty  as  second  in  command  to  the  governor,  Don  Andres  de  Ariza, 
under  the  appointment  of  the  viceroy,  and  now  first  in  command  in 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  1 7 

consequence  of  the  sickness  of  the  said  governor,  it  appears  that  1 am 
in  duty  bound  to  make  the  following  representations  to  your  honor: 

First,  the  support  of  any  population  whatsoever  not  being  possible  at 
this  station,  in  consequence  of  its  water  and  climate,  in  order  to  succor 
by  land  the  new  establishment  that  his  excellency  may  determine  to 
found  upon  the  Fiver  Chucunaque,  or  upon  others  that  discharge  them- 
selves into  it,  to  facilitate  and  to  secure  the  passage  to  Carolina,  (which 
passage  can  only  be  made  during  two  months  of  the  year,  part  of  Janu- 
ary, all  of  February,  and  part  of  March,)  it  is  sufficient  that  this  post 
remain  a station  such  as  Bocachica  or  Seteganti.  I do  not  lose  sight  of 
the  fact  that  from  this  station  a road  might  be  re-opened  direct  to  the 
westward,  which  would  touch  upon  some  of  the  stations  of  Oliimasi, 
Chepo,  or  Terable ; and,  moreover,  that  the  rivers  Bayano,  Este,  Savanas, 
and  Chucunaque,  being  formerly  connected  together  at  their  sources,  if, 
in  time,  a village  could  be  established  between  their  river  heads,  a road 
might  be  opened  by  land  from  hence  to  the  village.  For  all  this,  I con- 
sider that  the  assistance  of  the  fortress  already  mentioned  would  be 
sufficient. 

In  the  second  place,  as  the  fort  of  Yavisa  is  situated  at  almost  the 
same  distance  from  Bocachica  as  from  this  station,  and  villages  are  to  be 
established  (in  conformity  with  the  orders  of  the  viceroy)  upon  the  ris- 
ing ground  of  Betanzos,  close  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  Sucubti,  upon 
the  Chucunaque  5 it  is  evident  that  the  journey  from  Yavisa  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Sucubti  can  be  made  in  summer  in  four  days  by  water  in 
common-sized  pirogues,  which  is  two  days  more  than  from  this  station 
by  land.  But  in  winter  there  are  insurmountable  difficulties  to  the  under- 
taking of  this  journey.  Thence  it  is,  senor  commandant-in- chief,  that 
I could  wish  that  the  road  which  is  to  be  opened  to  the  establishment 
should  be  by  way  of  Yavisa  and  the  River  Chucunaque,  taking  advan- 
tage of  the  mouth  of  the  River  Fugesa  and  one  of  the  little  villages  which 
his  excellency  also  mentioned;  the  other  road  being  by  way  of  one  of 
the  rivers  Fupisa,  or  Fubuganti,  the  passage  of  the  Indians  from  the 
northward  by  the  river  Sueti.  Passing  across  these  and  the  Fugesa, 
they  descend  to  Yavisa  in  order  to  commit  their  hostilities,  bold  enough 
to  go  even  as  far  as  that  establishment,  (town.) 

The  advantages  that  would  accrue  in  this  case  are  manifest;  the 
waters  and  climate  at  Yavisa  are  good ; the  plantains,  which  are  the  bread 
of  the  country,  are  close  at  hand,  and  the  resources  and  assistance  of 
Panama  are  more  easy  of  access  in  consequence  of  the  frequent  visits 
of  the  canoes  that  come  up  the  river,  even  as  far  as  Real,  in  order  to  cut 
plantains.  To  establish  the  point  of  junction,  there  is  no  expense  to  be 
incurred  at  Yavisa,  inasmuch  as  it  contains  a good  stronghold,  (a  moated 
house,)  with  its  warehouses;  and  if  it  should  be  found  necessary  to 
have  barracks,  (soldiers’  quarters,)  the  troops  themselves  could  construct 
them.  They  are  able,  at  present,  to  obtain  assistance  from  the  villages 
of  Penogeina,  Molineca,  Real,  and  Tichichi,  by  way  of  the  river  and 
also  by  land.  Consequently  they  will  be  better  protected  against  the 
incursions  of  the  enemy;  a better  harbor  cannot  be  wished  for;  and 
finally  desertion  by  the  soldiers  will  be  rendered  more  difficult.  But  at 
this  establishment  of  Principe,  boats  being  seriously  impeded  by  the 
rocks,  no  persons  are  tempted  to  come  to  it  even  with  the  exorbitant 
profit  of  one  hundred  per  cent,  on  what  they  might  bring.  The  ware- 
houses, quarters  for  the  soldiers,  church  and  other  buildings  cannot  stand 
longer  than  one  year;  for  which  reason,  at  present,  they  require  to  be 
built  afresh,  as  has  been  the  case  with  the  church  and  one  of  the  soldiers 
quarters.  This  is  caused  partly  by  the  quality  of  the  material,  but 
H.  Ex.  Doc.  113 2 


18  INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 


chiefly  by  the  soft  character  of  the  soil,  which  in  the  summer  opens  in 
large  crevices,  while  in  winter  it  is  saturated  with  water,  becoming  peat- 
like;  so  that  altogether  there  is  never  any  firm  holding  ground  for  the 
main  props  of  the  buildings. 

Finally,  I am  persuaded  that  in  order  to  form  the  road  to  the  north 
via  this  place,  or  by  way  of  Yavisa,  there  will  be  one-third  less  expense 
incurred  without  taking  into  consideration  the  advantages  of  having  the 
soldiers  contented  and  free  from  epidemic  complaints.  Nevertheless  the 
Lieutenant  Colonel  Don  Juan  Donoso,  who  proceeds  to  your  station  and 
has  surveyed  all  these  localities,  will  be  able  to  inform  your  honor 
minutely  on  all  the  points  you  may  desire,  if  you  should  deem  it  expe- 
dient to  communicate  the  same  to  his  excellency  the  viceroy,  either  in 
writing  or  in  person. 

God  protect  your  honor  many  years.  Principe  of  Darien,  April  24, 
1787. 

I am  vour  honor’s  most  obedient  and  devoted  servant, 

Sehor  Don  JOSEF  DE  MATOS. 

Sehor  Don  Jose  Domas  y Valle, 

Sehor  Governor  and  Commandant-in-chief. 


No.  9. 

Domas  y Valle  to  Ariza. 

I transmit  to  you  a copy  of  the  two  letters  which  the  engineer  in  ordi- 
nary, Don  Juan  Donoso,  and  the  governor  pro  tempore  of  Darien,  Don  Jose 
de  Matos,  have  sent  to  me  in  reply  to  the  order  of  his  excellency,  which 
I had  transmitted  to  them,  relative  to  the  new  establishment  to  be  formed 
at  the  locality  of  Betanzos,  ana  some  other  small  one  between  this  and 
Principe,  of  the  nature  of  a hamlet  or  village,  in  order  that,  agreeably 
with  yesterday’s  discussion,  the  plan  of  execution  may  to-day  be  put  in 
writing,  and  that  the  viceroy  may  consider  and  decide  on  what  shall  be 
satisfactory.  For  this  purpose  I intend  to  remit  to  him  by  the  post  of 
to-morrow,  if  possible,  a copy  of  this  dispatch,  which  you  will  return  to 
me  with  your  opinion. 

God  protect  you  for  many  years.  Panama,  May  9,  1787. 

JOSfi  DOMAS  Y VALLE. 

Sehor  Don  Andres  de  Ariza. 


No  10. 

Extract  from  Garcia  Villabd’s  report  on  the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  taken  from 
the  Bogota  archives , dated  September  17,  1787.  Cana  mine. 

The  town  or  village  of  Santa  Maria  is  distant  three  days’  journey,  by 
a bad  road,  from  the  village  of  Cana.  It  is  situated  in  virgin  land,  in  a 
fertile  plain  of  great  extent,  fit  for  a large  population.  At  present,  the 
population  consists  of  eight  families  of  very  wretched  negroes  and 
Indians,  who  maintain  themselves  merely  by  the  game  on  the  plains 
and  by  some  gold  which  they  obtain  by  washing  the  earth.  It  has  a 
stronghold  of  planks  and  tiles,  with  four  swivel  guns,  one  sergeant, 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  19 


and  twenty  soldiers  for  its  defence,  some  of  whom  are  married.  This 
village  was  very  populous  and  was  well  known  for  its  rich  mines,  named 
“ Espiritu  Santo,”  which  were  near  the  mountains  of  the  same  name. 
They  were  abandoned  because  the  miners  had  not  sufficient  funds  to  put 
them  in  profitable  working  order,  and  also,  because  the  rebel  Indians, 
accompanied  by  the  foreigners  who  were  in  the  neighborhood,  in  the 
Gulf  of  Darien  on  the  north,  made  assaults  upon  them.  It  would  be 
very  advantageous  to  the  CroAvn  and  the  province  if  the  works  in  the 
mines  were  undertaken  on  the  King’s  account,  for  they  produce  gold  in 
such  abundance  and  of  such  superior  quality  that  it  is  commonly  called 
the  Potosi  of  this  valuable  metal.  By  the  “fifths”  alone  they  would  be 
sufficient  to  maintain  the  province  of  Panama,  as  was  proved  when  they 
were  worked,  and  when  the  royal  dues  were  estimated  annually  at  one 
hundred  thousand  castrillians  (three  dollars  and  three  cents  each)# of 
gold.  ******* 

* YP  ALISA.  * 


Kb.  11. 


Millet’s  first  expedition. 


Senor  Command ant-in-chjee  : I communicate  to  you,  sir,  the  dis- 
covery and  observations  that  I have  made  upon  the  excursion  with 
Captain  Urruchurchu. 

On  Wednesday,  the  lfith,  at  half  past  one  in  the  afternoon,  we  de- 
parted from  this  establishment  by  the  river  Aglomate,  and  following 
the  track  or  pathway  of  the  Indians,  we  proceeded  along  the  foot  of  a 
mountain  which  the  Indians  denominated  “Montana  Grande,”  (Big 
Mountain,)  by  which  name  they  distinguish  it  from  the  others,  in  conse- 
quence of  its  great  height.  At  six  in  the  evening  we  arrived  at  a hut 
which  acts  as  a liostlery  for  the  traders,  where  we  slept.  To  this  house 
or  hut  the  distance  is  about  three  leagues,  a little  more  or  less,  to  traverse 
which  we  pass  the  said  river  forty-five  times,  with  the  water  about  half 
thigh  deep.  On  the  border  of  the  river  there  are  three  houses  where  the 
Indians  reside,  and  in  all  three  there  were  not  more  than  eight  or  ten  of 
those  who  every  day  carry  on  traffic  with  this  establishment.  On 
Thursday  at  daybreak  we  took  the  second  turning,  ascending  the  moun- 
tain which  has  a sloping  ascent  of  about  three  quarters  of  a league,  from 
the  summit  of  which  the  glimmer  of  this  establishment  may  be  "descried, 
and  following  the  pathway  that  the  Indians  use,  which  lias  a descent 
moderate  and  with  various  breaks  and  declivities,  of  about  one  league  more 
or  less,  we  find  a pathway  which  turns  off  to  the  left  to  Sueti  or  Chueti. 
Shortly  afterward  you  meet  with  the  River  Forte,  and  at  a short  distance 
thence  the  large  river  of  Sucubti,  into  which  the  following  and  already 
mentioned  rivers,  Forte,  Algancia,  and  Chueti  discharge  themselves. 
From  the  foot  of  the  mountain  these  rivers  meet,  we  proceeded  down- 
wards by  the  river  Sucubti  with  the  water  knee  and  waist  deep.  This 
river  shows  that  it  contains  large  quantities  of  (matrix,)  “madre in  times 
of  much  rain  it  would  have  a strong  current,  by  reason  of  the  great  fall, 
and  must  be  very  difficult  to  navigate  from  its  being  so  full  of  eddies. 
Even  with  the  little  water  it  now  contains  it  is  requisite  to  speak  very 
loud  in  order  for  us  to  hear  one  another.  The  Indians  traverse  this 
river  at  all  times  in  their  “cayucos”  by  their  great  dexterity  in  stemming 
the  currents  and  avoiding  the  rocks;  when  they  find  themselves  in  dif- 


20  INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 

Acuity,  suddenly  they  jump  into  the  water  and  hear  the  cayuco  out  of 
the  danger  upon  their  shoulders,  even  when  it  is  loaded  with  cargo;  it  has 
happened  while  I was  there. 

Proceeding  down  this  river  the  first  house  belonging  to  them  is  met 
with  on  the  right  hand,  and  about  a quarter  of  a league,  a little  more  or 
less,  another,  and  at  about  the  like  distance  on  the  left  another,  and 
continuing  up  same  river  we  reached  a house  where  Captain  Urruchurchu 
and  his  companions  lodged  us;  I observed  that  it  contained  three  women, 
namely,  the  mother  of  the  captain  and  the  wives  of  his  brothers;  five 
boys,  and  three  men.  These  houses  or  species  of  huts  are  from  ten  to 
twelve  yards  long,  and  six  yards  wide,  with  “barbacoas”  placed  under 
the  roof,  where  the  Indians  sleep,  and  below,  the  women,  each  in  her 
hammock.  There  was  no  other  fnrniture  in  there  except  a few  drinking 
cups,  the  most  of  them  broken,  two  descriptions  of  lances,  many  bows, 
arrows,  and  the  kitchen  utensils  suited  to  their  wants.  At  about  half 
the  way  the  captain  proceeded  in  advance,  stating  that  he  was  going  to 
see  if  there  was  anything  new-  going  on  among  the  Indians,  and  in  case 
there  should  be,  he  would  come  and  meet  us  in  order  that  we  might  re- 
trace our  steps.  He  left  me  alone  with  the  other  Indians  who  accompa- 
nied me,  with  whom  I continued  the  route  the  whole  of  Thursday  the 
17th,  until  my  arrival  at  the  before  mentioned  house,  where  I remained 
the  whole  of  that  night  and  the  Friday  following.  On  this  day,  at  about 
two  o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  Urruchurchu  made  his  appearance  with 
his  wife,  his  son,  and  six  Indians,  telling  me  that  those  two  lads  were 
good  friends,  and  that  they  had  come  to  see  us. 

Upon  my  inquiring  of  him  why  he  had  not  taken  me  to  the  house 
where  he  resided,  he  replied  that  I was  tired  and  foot  sore,  and  that  his 
house  was  very  far  off,  and  that  the  road  that  we  had  come  was  much 
better.  Be  this  as  it  may,  I noticed  that  both  his  sons  and  his  wife,  when 
he  sent  them  for  anything  to  the  house,  w ent  and  returned  in  less  than  one 
hour;  finding  that  there  was  some  repugnance  to  my  going  there  I did 
not  wish  to  put  them  out  of  their  way. 

At  the  back  of  the  house  is  a very  high  hill,  but  not  of  great  extent, 
very  picturesque  and  pleasing.  The  Indians  told  me  that  on  it  the  devil 
resided,  and  on  that  account  I could  not  go  there,  although  it  was  so  near. 

Upon  asking  Urruchurchu  to  what  place  the  river  Sucubti  flowed,  by 
wilich  we  had  traveled,  he  informed  me  that  it  flowed  as  far  as  the  river 
Santa  Maria,  and  that  it  led  to  the  establishment  of  Santa  Maria  Feche- 
che,  and  other  villages  where  Hon  Andres  de  Ariza  had  been;  that  he 
formerly  went  there  to  traffic,  but  that  Don  Andre  was  not  upon  friendly 
terms  with  them,  and  that  on  that  account  he  had  ceased  to  do  so. 

Upon  inquiring  of  him  what  the  distance  might  be,  he  replied  that  it 
wras  the  same  as  to  Carolina;  but  he  contradicted  himself  another  day, 
telling  me  that  it  was  an  eight  days’  journey  dow-n  the  river  and  ten 
days’  up. 

On  the  Saturday,  early  in  the  morning,  w^e  started  on  our  return  to  this 
establishment,  there  being  in  company  with  me  three  Indian  women,  six 
lads,  and  eleven  Indians,  vrho  voluntarily  wished  to  come.  All  these,  as 
they  perceived  that  I had  my  shoes  and  boots  worn  out,  and  that  I was 
somewhat  foot  sore,  they  kindly  persuaded  me  to  go  on  board  one  of  their 
cayucos,  in  wdiich  I came  up  the  river  about  two  leagues,  as  far  as  the  water 
would  allow.  I did  not  notice  in  all  the  distance  that  I traveled  any 
mountains  of  any  importance,  with  the  exception  of  the  tw  o already  men- 
tioned, and  those  were  not  densely  wooded  as  we  had  believed  them  to  be, 
for  they  are  covered  with  large  trees  high  and  tufted,  and  among  them  some, 
very  small  ones  clear  of  branches,  so  that  it  appears  to  me  with  great 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 


21 


facility  a road  might  be  made  so  as  to  travel  by  it  on  horseback.  It  is, 
in  the  first  place,  as  I have  already  stated,  three  leagues  from  this  estab- 
lishment to  the  aforesaid  skirt  of  the  mountains  called  “ Montana  Grande,” 
(Big  Mountain.)  Without  the  construction  of  a road  one  may  travel  the 
distance  on  horseback,  cutting  away  any  impediment  that  might  cross 
the  route. 

This  mountain,  that  the  Indians  consider  so  very  large,  has  not  one  dif- 
ficult pass,  with  the  exception  of  a ravine  at  the  commencement,  which 
four  men  with  spades  could  level  in  less  than  one  hour,  and  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  ascent  there  is  a tree  that  the  winds  have  uprooted,  the  trunk 
of  which  is  very  large  and  lies  athwart  the  road.  The  trouble  of  cutting 
at  the  tree  may  be  avoided  by  using  a pathway  on  one  side  or  the  other 
of  the  road,  Avhich  may  be  extended  to  any  desirable  width.  Much  worse 
paths  are  traversed  on  horseback  on  the  road  from  Aonda  to  Santa  Fe 
de  Bogota.  On  the  journey  up  this  mountain  there  is  one  defile  which 
is  one  yard  in  breadth  on  the  one  side,  and  on  the  other  of  which  has 

to (here  the  manuscript  is  unintelligible.)  There  is  another 

bad  pass  beyond  this  place;  descending  the  river  Footi  is  met  with;  it 
appears  to  me  there  will  be  no  difficulty,  beyond  which,  in  forming  the 
road,  carrying  it  not  by  way  of  the  river  Sucubti  nor  along  its  bank,  but 
to  the  left,  where,  indeed,  there  are  some  fissures,  which,  however,  are  of 
little  moment.  I inquired  of  Captain  Urruchurchu  if  there  was  much 
high  ground  further  on,  and  he  informed  me  that  there  was  not,  that 
we  had  passed  the  worst. 

What  related  to  your  excellency  is  the  sum  of  my  observation.  If, 
hereafter,  anything  should  occur  to  me  worthy  of  your  attention  I will 
communicate  the  same  to  your  honor. 

God  protect  your  honor  for  many  years. 

MAN’L  MILLA,  Sta.  Ma. 

Carolina,  January  27,  1788. 


No.  12. 


FERSEN’S  JOURNAL  ACROSS  THE  CORDILLERA. 

Journal  of  the  occurrences  that  have  taken  place  up  to  this  date  in  the 
matter  of  the  opening  of  the  road  that  is  to  traverse  the  isthmus  from 
north  to  south. 

February  16. — I arrived  in  the  Bay  of  Carolina  at  half  past  8 o’clock 
at  night. 

February  17. — I remained  the  whole  of  that  day  on  the  island,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  arrival  there  of  the  chief  cazique,  Don  Bernardo,  the 
captain,  William  Haler,  and  Urrichurchu,  who,  after  leaving  his  family 
on  the  mainland,  returned  to  the  island;  Captain  Hooper  arrived  also  ; 
we  passed  the  day  together,  and  during  the  conversation,  I noticed  fre- 
quent smiles  passing  between  the  chiefs.  I did  not  manifest  any  signs 
that  I understood  them  on  that  occasion,  paying  them  every  respect, 
and  acting  with  prudent  dissimulation. 

F ebruary  18. — In  the  morning  of  this  day  I proceeded  to  the  mainland, 
and,  conferring  with  my  predecessor  relative  to  the  ill  humor  that  I 
had  noted  between  the  caziques,  at  the  same  time  bearing  in  mind  what 
the  adjutant,  Don  Manuel  Milla,  Captain  Dubernay,  and  the  interpret- 
ers had  related,  hearing  what  each  of  them  had  to  say  separately,  I 


22  INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 

found  that  the  grudges  that  had  been  perceived  still  to  exist  between 
these  caziques  were  but  too  true.  For  this  reason  I joined  the  three 
caziques,  and,  in  the  presence  of  my  predecessor,  Don  Antonio  Velas- 
quez, of  the  adjutant,  Milla,  and  Captain  Dubernay,  we  entered  into  a 
discussion  upon  the  subject  of  the  new  road.  The  cazique  in  chief,  Don 
Bernardo,  and  Captain  William  Haler  replied  that  they  were  willing, 
and  that  they  had  come  for  the  express  purpose.  Captain  Urruchurchu, 
of  Sucubti,  declared  the  same,  but  added  that  he  alone  was  sufficient  to 
open  the  new  route;  that  the  reason  of  his  ill  humor  proceeds  from  the 
circumstance  that  the  other  two  caziques  claim  to  assist  at  the  operation 
of  the  road,  (a  thing  that  those  of  his  tribe  would  not  consent  to,  and 
would  resist  by  force  of  arms;)  and  that  it  is  not  in  his  power  to  remedy 
it;  that  the  commission  in  all  its  details  had  been  intrusted  to  him  only. 

The  chief  caziques,  Don  Bernardo  and  Captain  William  Haler,  replied, 
utlie  allegations  of  Urruchurchu  were  frivolous  pretexts  in  order  to  hide 
his  captious  objections;  that  he  had  been  to  Carthagena  merely  to  obtain 
rewards,  and  to  deceive  his  excellency;  that,  at  all  events,  they  had 
ottered  their  services  for  the  effecting  of  the  road;  that  it  was  not 
reasonable  that  they  should  be  deprived  of  rendering  service,  inasmuch 
as  they  had  all  promised  it  conjointly  when  the  pacification  was  dis- 
cussed at  Turbacco.” 

Having  heard  these  arguments  from  both  parties,  I endeavored  to 
make  them  understand  how  very  advisable  it  was  that  they  should  act 
in  unison,  and  should  give  proof  of  their  good  intentions.  Captain 
Urruchurchu  replied  that  he  could  not  determine  anything  until  he  goes 
to  consult  with  those  of  his  tribe,  without  whose  authority  he  could  not 
act;  that  he  will  set  out  immediately  for  Sucubti,  and  return  within  six 
days  with  the  reply  in  time  to  accompany  the  adjutant,  Milla,  who 
wishes  to  convey  the  packet  of  letters  to  his  excellency,  at  Puerto  Prin- 
cipe; that  then  the  final  decision  will  be  made  relative  to  the  opening 
of  the  road,  and  it  shall  be  determined  whether  or  not  the  other  caziques 
should  join  in  this  operation;  that  if,  during  these  six  days,  any  further 
steps  are  taken,  he  cannot  be  answerable  for  the  consequences.  The 
caziques,  Don  Bernardo  and  Captain  Haler,  after  much  altercation,  at 
last  declared  that  they  acquiesced  in  this  conclusion.  In  consequence 
of  this,  on  the  morning  of  this  same  day,  the  18th,  Captain  Urruchurchu 
took  his  departure  for  Sucubti. 

February  21. — On  the  morning  of  this  day  the  brother  of  Urruchurchu 
presented  himself  before  me  with  two  lads.  He  states  that  his  brother 
remained  in  this  neighborhood  and  could  not  proceed  to  the  mountain 
in  consequence  of  having  hurt  one  of  his  feet,  but  the  other  Indian  chiefs 
declare  that  this  is  an  excuse  only,  the  truth  being  that  he  is  commis- 
sioned by  Urruchurchu  and  others  to  observe  whether  they  were  work- 
ing at  the  road  in  contravention  of  the  agreement  entered  into  on  the 
preceding  day.  At  nightfall  on  this  same  day  the  chief  cazique,  Don 
Bernardo,  and  Captain  Haler  informed  me  that  one  of  their  confidential 
agents  had  just  returned  from  the  route  to  Sucubti,  stating  that  he  had 
encountered  some  Indians  of  the  tribe  of  Urruchurchu,  from  whose  con- 
versation he  inferred  that  they  were  there  as  spies. 

February  22. — The  adjutant,  Don  Manuel  Milla,  commissioned  by  me 
to  watch  the  proceedings  and  listen  to  the  conversation  of  the  brother 
of  Urruchurchu,  who  comes  every  day  to  the  fort,  gave  to  me  the  dis- 
patch of  which  I annex  a copy. 

N.  S. — On  this  same  day  Captain  Hooper,  with  whom  he  had  con- 
sulted concerning  Urruchurchu,  in  confirmation  of  the  communications 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  23 

that  he  had  made  to  me  verbally,  gave  to  me  a written  document  in 
English,  a copy  of  the  translation  of  which  1 annex,  and  it  is  No.  2. 

February  23. — In  the  morning  of  this  day  the  adjutant,  Don  Manuel 
Milla,  informed  me  that  the  brother  of  Urruchurchu  had  just  told  him 
that,  notwithstanding  that  he  (Urruchurchu)  had  been  attacked  by  fever 
immediately  on  leaving  this  place  for  Sucubti;  nevertheless,  in  order  to 
fulfill  what"  he  had  proposed,  he  is  already  on  the  return,  visiting  the 
villages  in  the  mountain  as  far  as  Chueti  in  order  to  come  to  an  arrange- 
ment with  his  tribes  relative  to  the  question  of  the  road;  the  other 
caziques  state  that  he  will  not  come.  On  this  same  day  the  other 
caziques,  Don  Bernardo  and  Captain  Haler,  inform  me  that  the  cazique 
of  Correto  may  be  expected  every  day.  Don  Bernardo  also  adds  that 
Captain  Jack,  of  Gandi,  has  not  yet  been  able  to  come  because  he  is  ill 
of  fever,  and  because  he  has  gone  to  see  his  children , but  that  he  will  be 
here  within  a short  time. 

February  24. — In  the  morning  of  this  day  an  Indian  of  Sereti,  named 
Manuel  de  la  Cruz  Quintana,  enrolled  years  ago  with  the  Indians  of 
Gandi,  and  at  the  present  time  with  the  chief,  Bernardo,  whom,  in  con- 
sequence of  his  good  disposition,  I retain  in  the  capacity  of  a spy, 
informed  me  that  he  knows  that  Urruchurchu  has  not  used  any  diligence 
whatever  in  the  matter  of  the  treaty ; that  he  is  pretending  to  be  unwell; 
and  that  he  has  no  intention  of  returning.  The  truth  is,  that  the  six 
days’  time  that  Urruchurchu  demanded  expired  yesterday,  the  23d;  and 
that  as  yet  he  has  not  made  his  appearance,  though  his  brother  assured 
me  this  morning  he  would  be  here  at  3 o’clock  to-day. 

February  25. — In  the  morning  of  this  day  Urruehurchu’s  brother  came 
to  the  fort,  stating  that  the  reason  for  Urruchurchu’s  not  having  yet 
made  his  appearance  was  his  illness  of  fever,  which  did  not  permit  him 
to  leave  the  house;  in  the  evening  Urruchurchu  arrived  on  his  return 
from  Sucubti  with  the  reply  from  the  Indians  of  his  tribe.  This  reply 
is  in  substance  the  same  with  that  stated  by  him  before  his  departure; 
that  is  to  say,  that  by  no  means  would  the  people  of  the  mountains  con- 
sent to  the  other  chiefs  or  their  people  entering  their  territories  or  inter- 
fering in  any  way  in  the  matter  of  the  road;  and  this  is  the  answer  of 
all,  which  answer  it  is  out  of  his  power  to  change;  that  as  for  the  rest 
they  are  ready,  he  and  his,  to  fulfill  all  that  he  had  offered  to  his  excel- 
lency; that  he  comes  to  accompany  the  adjutant,  Don  Manuel  Milla, 
who  is  to  convey  the  packet  of  letters  to  Puerto  Principe,  and  will 
return  with  him;  and  that  on  liis  return  a beginning  of  the  opening  of 
the  road  shall  immediately  be  made. 

Having  heard  these  statements,  and  remembering  Urruchurchu’s  pre- 
vious reasons  pro  and  con,  it  appeared  to  me  advisable  to  take  advantage 
of  his  favorable  disposition.  I therefore  spoke  to  the  caziques,  Don 
Bernardo  and  Captain  William  Haler,  telling  them  that  the  true  way  to 
render  an  effective  service  to  the  King  and  carry  out  the  pacific  intentions 
of  his  excellency  lay  in  their  contributing  to  the  object  in  view;  that 
they  were  fully  aware  of  the  obstinacy  with  which  Urruchurchu  and  his 
people  were  opposed  to  any  strangers  interfering  in  the  matter  of  the 
road;  that  it  appears  that  there  was  some  good  reason  existing  in  his 
mind  for  it;  and  that  notwithstanding  the  surmises  and  accusations 
which  they  had  made  to  me  as  to  Urruchurchu’s  good  faith,  his  consistent 
arguments  and  his  conduct  this  day  would  not  justify  my  giving  him 
offense;  and,  further,  that  such  conduct  on  my  part  might  lead  to  a rup- 
ture of  the  present  friendly  relations,  which  would  interfere  with  the 
reasonable  designs  of  his  excellency. 

In  consequence  of  these  statements  I dissolve  my  engagement  with 


24  INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 

them;  at  the  same  time  returning  thanks  in  his  excellency’s  name.  I 
promised  them  the  same  gratuity  as  they  would  have  received  had  they 
assisted  me  in  the  work ; telling  them  that  I will  explain  the  matter  to  his 
excellency,  the  viceroy,  Avho  will  be  gratified  with  this  result,  which 
conforms  to  his  own  views.  I further  informed  them  that  on  being 
remunerated  they  could  retire  to  their  villages,  with  the  full  assurance 
that  in  case  Urruchurchu  failed  in  what  he  has  offered,  they  should  be 
recalled  to  carry  on  the  work  conjointly  with  us. 

This  explanation  judiciously  made  had  the  desired  effect  upon  the 
caziques,  Don  Bernardo  and  Captain  William  Haler;  for,  after  consult- 
ing together,  they  replied  that  they  were  satisfied,  and  that  it  was  a 
sufficient  inducement,  that  I told  them  it  would  gratify  his  excellency, 
whom  they  were  anxious  to  convince  of  their  fidelity.  Thus  happily 
ended  this  day’s  business. 

February  26. — In  consequence  of  what  transpired  on  the  preceding  day, 
the  adjutant,  Don  Manuel  Milla,  is  making  his  necessary  preparations  to 
start  on  the  morrow,  as  directed,  for  Puerto  Principe;  the  caziques,  also, 
General  Don  Bernardo  and  Captain  William  Hales,  are  preparing  to 
return  to  their  villages,  appearing  well  satisfied  with  the  arrangement. 

February  27. — Cazique  General  Don  Bernardo  and  Captain  William 
Hales,  the  lieutenant  of  Captain  Jack,  and  all  the  Indian  foot  soldiers, 
have  embarked  to  return  to  their  villages,  reiterating  their  good  inten- 
tions and  declaring  their  willingness  and  that  of  their  tribes  along  the 
coast,  to  lend  their  assistance  in  the  King’s  service;  the  cacique  of 
Careto,  styling  himself  Chevalier  Paluti,  is  about  to  depart,  having 
presented  himself  on  my  arrival  tendering  his  services  in  anything  that 
we  might  wish  to  employ  him.  On  the  same  day  the  adjutant,  Don 
Manuel  Milla,  who  conveys  the  packet  of  letters  on  the  service  of  the 
King,  has  taken  his  departure  hence  for  Puerto  Principe,  by  the  new  road, 
and  lie  is  to  return  here  by  the  same  route.  Of  this  I give  an  account 
in  a separate  official  letter.  I have  dismissed  all  the  caciques  well 
contented,  including  Captain  Urruchurchu  of  Sucubti,  who  has  promised 
to  undertake  whatever  he  has  agreed  to. 

FRAKCISCO  DE  FERSEN. 

Carolina  of  Darien,  Februay  27,  1788. 

The  commandant  general  of  the  establishments  of  the  (Isthmus)  Darien 
informs  your  excellency  of  the  adjutant,  Don  Manuel  Milla,  having  set 
out  this  day  on  his  journey,  to  proceed  hence  to  Puerto  Principe  by  way 
of  the  new  road,  accompanied  by  Captain  Urruchurchu  of  Sucubti. 

Most  Excellent  Sir:  Agreeably  to  the  superior  orders  of  your 
excellency,  the  adjutant  of  this  fort,  Don  Manuel  Milla,  departs  this  day 
“Dia  de  la  Senora,”  with  the  packet  of  letters  upon  royal  service,  and 
accompanied  by  Captaiu  Urruchurchu  of  Sucubti. 

This  officer  proceeds  by  way  of  the  new  route,  which  traverses  the 
Isthmus  from  the  north  to  south  hence  to  Puerto  Principe.  He  is 
commissioned  to  treat  with  all  the  tribes  of  that  mountain  ridge  and  to 
reiterate  to  them  the  amicable  intentions  of  your  excellency  as  you  have 
instructed  me,  which  duty  I am  fully  persuaded  he  will  perform  to  the 
satisfaction  of  your  excellency.  For  this  reason  it  is  with  the  greatest 
satisfaction  that  I communicate  to  your  excellency  this  important  intel- 
ligence, begging  that  you  will  accept  my  sincere  congratulations  at  so 
favorable  a commencement,  not  doubting  that  its  termination  will  be 
equally  favorable. 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 


25 


God  protect  your  excellency  (muchos  annos)  many  years.  Carolina, 
February  27. 

Most  excellent  sir, 

FRANCISCO  DE  FERSEN. 

Most  Excellent  Seilor  Viceroy, 

Don  Antonio  Caballero  y Gorgora. 


No.  13. 

Bon  Andres  de  Ariza  to  Bon  Antonio  Caballero  y Gorgora. 

The  governor  of  Darien  communicated  to  your  excellency  that  the 
adjutant,  Don  Manuel  Milla,  has  taken  his  departure  for  Carolina,  with 
Captain  Suspani. 


Most  Excellent  and  Most  Illustrious  Sir:  By  way  of  Panama, 
by  post,  I transmitted  to  your  excellency,  on  the  7th  of  the  current 
month,  the  information  of  my  having  had  the  satisfaction  to  receive  the 
first  correspondence  by  way  of  this  new  isthmus.  It  was  that  of  your 
much  esteemed  favor  of  the  7th  February,  the  bearer  of  which  was  the 
adjutant  of  Carolina,  Don  Manuel  de  Milla,  convoyed  by  Captain  Suspani, 
two  Indians,  his  relations,  and  the  linguist,  Pio. 

The  said  travelers  had  to  pass  very  carefully  and  cautiously  through 
some  districts  of  Atchuanati,  more  especially  upon  their  arrival  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Sucubti,  where  they  observed  that  the  Chucuuas  and 
Moretes  have  not  separated.  The  cause  of  this,  according  to  Suspani, 
is  that  they  have  not  entered  into  any  agreement  with  your  excellency; 
Milla  himself  will  more  clearly  and  specifically  explain  this.  These  rebel 
Indians  are  those  who  obstinately  refuse  to  grant  us  a passage  through 
that  district,  and  are  the  same  with  those  who  endeavored  to  cut  off  the 
retreat  of  and  to  surround  the  thirty  men  whom  I dispatched  on  the 
17th  of  January,  of  which  I gave  your  excellency  advice  on  the  26th  of 
the  same  month.  I was  under  the  impression  that  these  enemies  were 
partisans  of  Captain  Suspani;  but  I have  been  much  rejoiced  not  only 
at  having  this  false  impression  removed,  but  of  having  the  great  satis- 
faction to  treat  amicably  with  Suspani  himself.  By  the  friendly  treat- 
ment which  I have  shown  him,  I flatter  myself  that  I have  convinced 
him  of  our  good  faith,  friendly  intentions,  and  complete  reconciliation. 
God  grant  it  may  be  so.  To-day  the  travelers  take  their  departure  hence 
by  water,  taking  the  widely-extended  detour  of  the  river  Chucunaque 
to  reach  the  Fubganti,  avoiding  the  road  by  which  they  have  arrived 
here,  so  as  not  to  fall  into  any  ambuscade  of  the  rebel  Indians,  which  is 
feared  by  Captain  Suspani. 

The  expressions  that  I have  heard  from  him  are,  as  has  already  been 
stated,  the  most  sincere  and  generous  towards  us  that  could  possibly  be 
desired.  May  the  God  of  armies  continue  to  us  his  helping  hand. 

God  protect  your  excellency  for  many  years.  Principe  of  Darien,  the 
10th  of  March,  1788. 

Most  excellent  and  most  illustrious, 

Senor  ANDRES  DE  ARIZA. 

The  most  Excellent  and  Illustrious 

Senor  Don  Antonio  Caballero  y Gorgora. 

P.  S. — As  Suspani  and  his  partisans  remain  in  amity  with  us,  there  is 
nothing  to  fear  relative  to  the  others,  for,  as  they  live  upon  a level  country 
and  without  any  aloe  plantations  on  this  side  of  the  Chucunaque, 
they  may  early  be  invaded  and  made  to  retreat  or  to  succumb. 


21 


IXTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 


No.  14. 

Manuel  Garcia  y Villalba  to  Domas  y Valle . 

Honored  Sir:  I have  already  communicated  to  you  that  Captain 
Suspani  with  two  other  Indians,  a negro  interpreter  of  Carolina,  and  a 
cadet  of  the  establishment  of  Carthagena,  named  Don  Manuel  de  Milla, 
adjutant  to  tne  commandant  of  that  place,  Sehor  Fersen,  having  left 
C irolina  on  the  second  of  the  current  month,  made  their  appearance  at 
this  establishment  on  the  seventh,  in  order  to  negotiate  a peace  with 
this  government. 

I have  now  to  state  that,  after  having  been  treated  as  courteously  as 
possible,  they  set  out  on  their  return  by  way  of  the  river  Chueunaque, 
in  order  to  proceed  by  its  waters  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  river  Chueti, 
which  empties  into  the  Fnganti.  Here  they  expected  to  find  friendly 
Indians  in  the  villages  waiting  to  receive  them  and  convey  them  in  safety 
as  far  as  Carolina.  The  change  in  the  mode  of  their  return  by  following 
this  new  route  is  a caution  suggested  by  the  cunning  of  Captain  Suspani 
in  order  to  avoid  the  Clmcunas.  These  Indians  are  opposed  to  grant- 
ing a free  passage  to  Sucubti. 

An  encounter  with  them  would  be  unavoidable  on  the  small  island  in 
the  said  river  where  they  have  encamped  to  obstruct  the  passage.  The 
Chucunas  are  opposed  to  the  passage  by  the  Chueunaque,  because,  as 
they  say,  the  chiefs  of  the  other  villages  did  not  give  them  notice  when 
they  went  to  Carthagena  that  they  also  might  go  with  them  to  negoti- 
ate a peace ; but  Captain  Suspani,  who  is  actually  the  owner  of  the  terri- 
tories which  secure  the  freedom  of  the  isthmus  from  one  establishment 
to  the  other,  deems  this  obstacle  but  slight,  and  thinks  it  easy  to  secure 
that  the  Indians  of  the  rivers  Sucubti,  Chueti,  and  Fubigantiact  in  good 
faith.  Although  there  should  be  no  other  way,  we  have  at  all  events 
secured  by  this  medium  the  communication  from  north  to  south. 

Captain  Suspani,  I assure  your  honor,  has  surprised  me  by  his  display 
of  the  greatest  capacity,  foresight,  and  prudence  on  the  present  occasion. 
He  acts  with  the  greatest  fidelity  5 he  promised  to  return  to  this  estab- 
lishment after  two  months  have  elapsed  with  his  wife  ; and  as  soon 
as  he  shall  have  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chueti,  to  dispatch  the 
pirogues  with  the  people  who  may  be  in  company  with  him,  and  his 
brother  Ignacio.  He  also  promised  faithfully  to  send  Indians  with  the 
correspondence  as  soon  as  he  shall  arrive  at  Carolina,  and  to  remain 
faithful  and  endeavor  to  conciliate  the  Chucunas  and  Moretis.  Suspani, 
as  he  is  much  disliked  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  villages  in  the  north 
and  in  the  south,  is  bound  to  take  great  pains  to  surpass  all  in  his  oilers. 
It  is  true  that  they  are  conditional,  for  although  he  allows  the  road  to  be 
opened  through  his  territories,  he  sets  certain  limits ; as,  for  example, 
that  it  be  narrow,  and  that  it  is  not  to  be  traversed  by  troops,  nor  by  a 
greater  number  of  men  than  four  or  six  at  a time.  He  is  fearful  lest  we 
should  surprise  and  compel  him  to  conform  to  our  usages  and  customs; 
for  they  all  like  liberty  to  which  they  are  accustomed.  I have  sufficient 
reasons  for  apprehending  that  as  soon  as  the  opening  of  said  road 
is  commenced  by  us,  they  will  oppose  it,  and,  therefore,  disagreements 
must  arise.  Hence  war,  which  will  cost  11s  some  bloodshed,  will  arise. 

I still  insist  upon  my  plan,  and  for  the  following  reasons : It  will  be  the 
means  of  depriving  them  of  communication  on  the  north  with  the  Eng- 
lish ; necessarily,  in  time,  they  must  be  reduced  to  accept  our  terms  and 
compelled  to  sue  for  peace,  for  hatchets,  knives,  &c.  They  prove  this 
by  their  mutual  dissentions,  such  as  took  place  at  the  meeting  on  the 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  27 


Sucubti  between  tlie  u Arqui-Chucunas”  and  Suspani  oh  his  journey  to  this 
place.  An  attempt  to  subdue  this  rebellious  and  indomitable  people  as  a 
means  of  keeping  open  the  road  will  drive  them  into  the  mountain 
fastnesses,  from  which  we  shall  find  it  impossible  to  dislodge  them. 

For  these  reasons  it  is  better  to  desist  from  the  present  undertaking, 
and,  until  they  are  better  rooted  in  our  friendship,  use  every  means  to 
deprive  them  of  the  supplies  which  they  procure  from  the  English 
through  the  ports  of  the  north.  This,  sir,  in  my  opinion,  is  the  most  ad- 
visable plan  to  be  adopted,  and  I offer  this  to  convince  any  person  of  the 
contrary  opinion.  Your  honor  will  do  me  the  favor  to  accept  this  opin- 
ion as  arising  from  the  anxious  wish  I have,  as  a good  and  loyal  subject, 
that  matters  may  be  conducted  in  the  best  manner. 

God  protect  your  honor  many  years.  Principe,  Darien,  March  10, 
1788. 

MANUEL  GAECIA  YILLALBA, 

Senior  Gommander-in-cliief. 

P.  S. — Suspani  has  not  taken  with  him  the  guides  from  Carolina,  being 
fearful  of  the  other  Indians,  as  he  has  not  yet  arranged  with  them  upon 
this  subject. 

M.  GAECIA  YILLALBA. 


No.  15. 

Ariza  to  Domas  y Valle. 

Most  Excellent  Sir  Yiceroy  and  Captain  General:  Under 
date  of  the  7th  instant,  I informed  your  worship,  by  the  boat  on  service 
at  this  establishment,  that  the  packet  of  letters  had  arrived  from 
Carolina,  including  another  which,  under  the  aforesaid  date,  I addressed 
to  your  excellency,  and  which  was  brought  to  this  place  by  the  adjutant, 
Don  Manuel  de  Milla,  and  the  captain  of  Sucubti,  Urruchurchu,  or 
Suspani.  The  said  u carriers,”  after  they  had  rested  two  days,  repre- 
sented to  me  that  they  desired  to  take  their  departure,  in  consequence 
of  their  being  required  to  return  to  their  destination  with  dispatch, 
without  waiting  for  the  answer  of  your  excellency.  On  the  10th  instant, 
at  six  o’clock  in  the  morning,  they  embarked  here,  to  effect  the  return 
by  way  of  the  large  river  of  Chucunaque,  and  to  reach  the  mountain 
chain  by  proceeding  up  the  rivers  Fuganti  and  Chueti,  to  a point  one 
day’s  journey  from  Carolina. 

According  to  the  various  journeys  which  I have  made  through  those 
districts,  I conceived  they  would  reach  Carolina  from  the  13tli  to  the 
20tli  of  the  current  month. 

The  said  travelers  have  been  treated  as  your  excellency  desired. 
They  were  well  satisfied  with  the  manner  in  which  they  were  treated 
by  us.  Urruchurchu  offered  to  send  to  me  from  Chueti,  their  point  of 
embarcation,  his  brother  Ygnacio,  or,  in  case  of  his  absence,  some 
Indian  of  consideration,  to  inform  me  of  their  journey,  and  whether 
the  Indians  who  joined  them  are  friendly. 

Both  Milla  and  Urruchurchu  have  told  me  that  immediately  on  their 
arrival  at  Carolina,  they  intended  to  open  the  road  with  the  help  of 
other  captains  of  Indians  and  infantry  officers,  already  appointed  for 
that  purpose,  though,  as  it  is  believed,  the  Chucunas  are  opposed 
thereto. 

Milla  states  that  the  road  on  this  side,  nearly  as  far  as  the  house  of 


28 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 


Suspani,  is  already  made,  tlie  ground  being  quite  level;  and  that  on 
the  other  side,  to  the  northward,  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  ridge  is 
almost  imperceptible,  so  that,  in  the  state  in  which  it  now  is,  trains  of 
beasts  of  burden  can  almost  pass  and  come  even  to  this  place. 

The  survey  of  this  route  was  the  duty  which  your  excellency  confided 
to  the  management  and  effective  energy  of  Milla.  The  aforesaid  Indians, 
the  Cliucunas,  are  the  same  as  those  who  opposed  our  troops  in  the 
month  of  January,  when  I went  to  measure  the  inundation  at  the  hill 
of  Betanzos. 

Suspani  states  that  they  will  not  relinquish  that  post,  and  on  that 
account  he  deviated  from  the  route  on  the  opposite  side. 

God  protect  your  excellency  for  many  years.  Principe,  March  15, 1788. 

ANDRES  DE  ARIZA. 

Seiior  Don  Josef  Domas  y Valle. 


No.  16. 

Mina’s  report  to  Domas  y Valle. 

Having  been  commissioned  by  his  lordship,  the  viceroy,  to  make  a 
journey  across  the  territories  of  Darien  from  north  to  south,  I left  Caro- 
lina on  the  2d  day  of  the  present  month,  accompanied  by  three  Indians, 
who  were  to  act  as  my  guides,  with  the  understanding  that  Captain 
Suspani  had  paved  the  way,  and  agreed  beforehand  with  the  other  tribes, 
especially  with  the  Chucumaques,  for  a free  and  uninterrupted  passage 
as  far  as  the  establishment  at  Puerto  Principe.  But  as  soon  as  I arrived 
near  the  territories  of  the  said  instructable  Indians,  Suspani  admitted 
the  risk  of  an  encounter  with  the  Chucunas,  in  consequence  of  his  not 
having  communicated  with  them,  which  he  assured  the  commandant  of 
Carolina  he  had  done.  Thus  it  became  necessary  to  pass  these  terri- 
tories secretly,  effacing  the  foot-marks  that  I made. 

All  of  this  was  sufficient  reason  for  my  returning  without  concluding 
my  commission,  had  I not  been  incited  by  the  ardent  wish  to  accomplish 
this  undertaking,  so  desirable  for  the  great  advantage  of  his  Majesty’s 
service. 

In  fact,  forgetful  of  the  dangers  referred  to,  I succeeded  in  accomplish- 
ing the  undertaking  at  the  expiration  of  six  days,  resting  some  time  in 
certain  places  upon  the  route.  At  Puerto  Principe,  Suspani  suggested 
that  the  Chucuna  Indians  might  waylay  us  upon  the  return.  For  this 
reason  I resolved  to  effect  the  return  by  way  of  the  rivers  Savana,  Fu- 
ganti,  and  Cliueti,  spending  on  this  very  circuitous  route  from  ten  to 
twelve  days.  As  soon  as  we  reached  the  village  Yavisa,  I was  made 
aware,  by  a letter  from  the  governor  of  this  province,  Don  Andres  de 
Ariza,  that  two  Indians  had  followed  our  footsteps  very  nearly  as  far  as 
Principe.  Upon  this  Suspani  became  much  troubled,  apprehending  that 
the  Chunas  might  waylay  us  at  the  mouth  of  the  Fuganti  River.  Con- 
sequently it  appeared  to  him  expedient  that  I should  not  run  this  risk, 
but  that  he  should  be  dispatched  with  the  letters  to  Carolina,  wiiile  I 
returned  to  Puerto  Principe.  He  proposed  to  return  and  fetch  me  so 
soon  as  he  had  settled  everything.  In  virtue  of  this  I adopted  the  reso- 
lution which  appeared  to  him  advisable,  and,  considering  that  it  was 
expedient  for  the  royal  service  that  my  return  to  my  destination  should 
be  effected  as  speedily  as  possible,  I immediately  set  out  on  my  journey 
to  this  city,  and  hence  to  Porto  Bello,  confident  that  your  excellency 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  29 


would  freely  grant  me  the  necessary  assistance,  and  would  give  direc- 
tions accordingly  to  the  governor  of  Puerto  Bello. 

God  protect  your  excellency  many  years.  Panama,  20th  March,  1788. 

MANUEL  DE  MILLA,  Santa  Ma. 

Don  Jose  I)omas  y Valle. 


No.  17. 


Domas  y Valle  to  the  Viceroy. 


Most  Excellent  Sir  : I inclose  to  your  excellency  the  adjoined  letter 
from  the  governor  of  Darien,  Don  Andres  de  Ariza,  inasmuch  as  he 
transmitted  it  to  me  specially  for  that  purpose  at  the  time  of  advising 
me  by  the  document  No.  1 of  the  arrival  of  Captain  Suspani  at  the  estab- 
lishment of  Principe,  together  with  the  adjutant,  Don  Manuel  Milla,  two 
Indians  and  a linguist.  To  the  official  letter  from  your  excellency  of  the 
7th  of  February,  received  on  the  15th  of  the  current  month  through  the 
medium  of  Don  Francesco  Fersen,  (or  by  way  of  the  new  road  that  is  to 
be  opened  from  Carolina  to  this  place,)  I replied  immediately,  by  my 
letter  No.  2,  in  order  that  the  said  Suspani  or  Milla  may  convey  it  at 
the  time  of  their  returning  to  the  place  of  their  destination ; whereof  I 
transmit  the  information  to  your  excellency  for  your  better  guidance. 

God  protect  your  excellency  for  many  vears.  Panama,  20th  March, 
1788. 


Most  excellent  sir, 


JOS£  DOMAS  Y VALLE. 


Most  Excellent  Seiior  Viceroy  and 

Captain-in-chief  of  these  Kingdoms. 


No.  18. 

MILLA’S  second  journey  across  the  cordillera. 

Journal  of  the  trade  by  the  route  which  1 followed  in  the  passage  made  across 
the  Isthmus  of  Darien  from  north  to  south. 

On  the  second  of  the  present  month,  Sunday,  I left  Carolina  at  6 o’clock 
in  the  morning,  accompanied  by  the  Indian  Suspani,  chief  of  the  village 
of  Sucubti,  and  two  of  his  companions,  and  the  interpreter  Pisquinto. 
We  commenced  our  journey  by  way  of  the  Aglatomate,  following  up  the 
course  of  its  waters  with  slight  and  repeated  crossings,  until  we  arrived 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  mountain  chain  where  the  Indians  of  Chueti  keep 
a small  hut,  (the  same  that  I described  in  my  first  official  letter,  dated  Jan- 
uary 22,)  which  serves  as  a lodging  for  them  and  for  those  of  Sucubti 
usually  carrying  on  their  trade  with  Carolina  by  this  road.  From  Carolina 
to  this  place  the  distance  may  be  about  two  leagues  and  a half,  observing 
that  on  arriving  at  the  point  which  they  call  the  “two  mouths,”  the  one 
on  the  right  must  be  followed;  in  the  summer  time  it  is  entirely  dry. 

In  order  to  the  recognition  of  this  place,  a small  Indian  hut  covered 
with  plantain  leaves  will  be  seen,  and  at  a short  distance  from  this  spot 
will  be  perceived,  looking  along  the  line  which  forms  the  mountain  chain, 
a mountain  rather  less  than  the  range  to  the  right.  At  this  place  water 


30  INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 


will  already  have  been  found  in  this  branch.  Thus  far  the  bed  of  the 
Agiatomate  is  in  some  places  sand,  in  others  gravel;  and  from  this 
place  onward  the  stones  show  above  water  and  are  easily  moved.  Taking 
great  care  that  these  marks  are  recognized,  on  the  right  of  the  river  will 
be  found  the  road  or  pathway  leading  to  the  aforesaid  lodging,  (hospi- 
tium,)  which  stands  at  about  sixteen  to  twenty  yards  from  the  margin  of 
the  river. 

From  this  place,  the  right  path  to  ascend  the  mountain  chain  from 
north  to  south  is  unmistakable,  inasmuch  as  on  passing  three  or  four 
contiguous  and  small  ravines,  (quebradas,)  or,  more  properly  speaking,  on 
passing  one  and  the  same  ravine  three  or  four  times,  and  paying  a little 
attention,  there  will  be  found  on  the  left  hand  a deep  hollow  much 
trodden,  which  is  where  the  mountain  begins  to  ascend,  the  pathway 
being  so  wide  and  trodden  that  it  appears  as  though  it  had  been  made 
by  ourselves.  The  whole  of  the  ascent  is  rather  steep,  and  at  the  border 
of  it  the  trunk  of  a fallen  tree  will  be  met  with  which  impedes  the  direct 
line  of  the  road;  but  both  to  the  right  and  left  there  is  a passage. 

Standing  at  this  point  the  shimmer  of  the  sea  may  be  described,  nay, 
Carolina  itself  may  be  seen,  although  it  is  impossible  to  see  both  sides 
of  it.  The  pathway  must  be  followed  without  taking  any  notice  of  that 
to  the  left  which  leads  to  Chueti,  and  following  the  one  to  the  right 
which  is  almost  direct  from  north  to  south,  we  may  reach  the  top  of  the 
mountain,  and  make  the  descent,  which  is  not  so  steep,  although  some- 
what longer. 

The  termination  of  the  declivity  of  this  chain  of  mountains  forms  an 
acute  angle,  at  the  point  of  vhicli  the  rivers  Forti  and  Sucubti  are.  met 
with,  and  which  form  the  angle.  As  soon  as  we  arrive  at  this  spot,  we 
may  proceed  down  the  river,  which  is  only  one,  since  there  the  two  unite 
and  form  one  river,  the  Sucubti.  If  you  follow  the  course  of  this 
river  with  the  stream,  which  runs  southward,  without  any  difficulty 
whatever,  there  will  be  found,  after  a journey  of  three  or  four  hours,  a 
plantation  of  plantain  trees,  and  a very  small  house,  and  in  half  an  hour 
afterwards  another,  both  on  the  right  bank;  and  in  about  an  hour  after- 
wards, a similar  one  on  the  left-hand  side.  A quarter  of  a league  further 
down  a larger  house  will  be  met  with  than  those  referred  to  on  the  left, 
which  is  that  of  Ignacio,  the  elder  brother  of  Urruchurchu,  the  same  in 
which  they  received  me  when  I went  out  with  him  the  first  time,  in  the 
month  of  January.  In  this  house  I took  rest  upon  this  last  route, 
arriving  at  it  at  the  hour  of  two  in  the  afternoon,  whence,  after  resting 
myself,  I proceeded  on  my  journey  by  a road  that  is  at  the  back  of  it, 
and  ascending  a small  mountain  of  u live  rock,”  (the  pathway  over  which 
is  unmistakable  in  consequence  of  its  being  much  trodden,)  at  the  dis- 
tance of  about  half  a league,  I again  descended  to  the  aforesaid  river, 
which  at  this  spot  contains  many  large  rocks,  which  may  be  avoided  by 
going  either  to  the  left  or  to  the  right,  according  to  the  convenience. 

Without  losing  sight  of  the  river,  we  find,  at  the  distance  of  a league, 
first  an  Indian  house;  a short  distance  thence  another;  and,  at  the  like 
distance  from  the  latter,  is  the  town  or  village  of  Sucubti,  where  the 
Captain  Urruchurchu  has  his  residence.  This  village  is  composed  of 
six  houses,  together  with  those  above  referred  to,  and  two  or  three  lower 
down;  the  number  of  the  inhabitants  whereof  will  be  about  thirty 
Indians  capable  of  bearing  arms,  a few  more  women,  and  sixty  children 
of  both  sexes.  On  Monday  the  third,  I staid  the  whole  day  in  this  vil- 
lage in  consequence  of  the  said  Urruchurcliu’s  being  engaged  in  making 
arrangements  for  the  journey  that  we  were  about  to  undertake.  On 
Tuesday  the  fourth,  I took  my  departure,  accompanied  by  the  said  cap- 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  31 


tain  and  two  Indians  belonging  to  him;  at  daybreak  proceeding  along 
the  banks  of  the  river,  with  the  stream,  or  at  various  points  leaving  it, 
all  the  ground  being  level  and  (dear  of  wood;  about  ten  o’clock  in  the 
day,  after  having  walked  about  two  leagues,  we  left  the  river  entirely. 
We  continued  the  journey  by  a path  made  by  the  Indians,  which  is  to 
the  left  of  the  river.  The  whole  of  the  rest  of  this  day  we  proceeded 
through  a forest,  very  level  and  open,  which  is  where  the  Indians  of 
Sucubti  carry  on  the  chase,  inasmuch  as  it  abounds  in  all  descriptions 
of  game.  At  about  half  past  five  o’clock  in  the  evening  we  made  a halt 
in  a small  valley,  where,  in  a small  pool,  was  scarcely  sufficient  water  to 
satisfy  our  wants. 

On  Wednesday  the  fifth  we  continued  this  route  through  the  same 
forest,  and  at  about  ten  o’clock  in  the  day  we  again  met  with  the  river 
Sucubti,  at  a place  where  the  Indians  made  an  attack  upon  the  lieuten- 
ant of  the  permanent  battalion  of  Panama  and  wounded  the  guide.  As 
soon  as  we  arrived  at  this  spot,  Urruchurchu  told  me  that  we  could  not 
proceed  any  further  until  some  Indians  arrived  with  their  pirogues, 
(canoes,)  which  would  convey  us  the  remaning  short  distance  to  the  roacl 
which  the  Spaniards  had  opened.  We  were  waiting  the  arrival  of  these 
pirogues  until  Thursday  the  6th,  when  there  arrived  four  with  eight 
Indians,  who,  as  I understood,  were  Uruichucunas ; and  from  the  great 
suspicions  and  greater  mistrust  that  I entertained  of  them,  I knew  that 
they  were  of  those  included  in  our  truce,  and  that  they  were  allied  with 
the  rebellious  Chucunas,  who,  1 informed  myself,  were  always  upon  the 
lookout  to  fall  upon  any  of  our  people  who  should  proceed  into  the  forest 
from. the  settlement  of  Puerto  Principe.  These  Indians  made  tome 
various  statements  all  full  of  deception  and  opposed  to  the  opening  of 
the  road.  They  said  that  they  do  not  wish  to  have  troops  marching 
through  their  territories;  and  that  in  order  to  have  the  communication 
that  we  desire  with  Puerto  Principe,  it  is  sufficient  that  they  themselves 
should  carry  to  and  fro  such  parcels  of  letters  as  we  might  require. 
They  said  also,  that  they  desire  to  be  at  peace  with  us  but  on  the  con- 
dition that  they  remaim  in  their  territories  and  we  in  ours ; to  all  which 
1 gave  my  consent  in  order  that  they  might  allow  me  to  continue  my 
journey.  Upon  which  they  were  satisfied,  Urruchurchu  having  made 
them  a present  of  some  yards  of  manufactures  of  those  that  his  excel- 
lency gave  to  him  at  Carthagena,  which  for  that  purpose  he  brought 
with  him  secretly.  On  this  day  at  about  twelve  o’clock  we  embarked 
upon  the  river,  and  at  about  two  leagues  thence  we  made  a halt  near  to 
the  road  they  call  the  Ariza  Road. 

On  Friday  the  7th,  at  daybreak,  we  continued  the  journey  by  the  road 
opened  by  the  Spaniards,  and  at  three  o’clock  we  passed  the  river  Chu- 
cuna  by  a floating  bridge,  and  arrived  at  the  island  where  Don  Luis  de 
la  Carrera  was  encamped.  There  we  met  with  fresh  tracks  and  huts  of  the 
Chucunas,  at  which  Urruchurchu  was  much  troubled,  and  in  order  to 
conduct  me  with  the  greatest  precaution  he  proceeded  forward  with  the 
other  Indians,  I following  him  at  a distance,  until  passing  the  other 
branch  of  this  river  newly  nailed  a La  Paz.”  At  this  spot  the  guides  were 
dismissed,  as  we  considered  ourselves  out  of  danger.  Nevertheless, 
using  the  precaution  to  efface  with  the  hands  my  foot  prints  in  the  sand, 
they  agreed  that  when  we  returned  we  should  not  pass  that  way  lest  we 
should  encounter  the  Chucunas.  We  continued  our  journey  with  Urru- 
churchu, and  at  about  five  o’clock  in  the  evening  we  arrived  at  Puerto 
Principe.  Suspani  resolved  that  on  our  return  we  should  proceed  by 
way  of  the  river  Saranas,  Chucunaque,  and  Fubuganti,  landing  at  the 
village  of  Cliueti,  one  short  day’s  journey  from  the  road  to  Carolina. 


32  INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 

This  idea  was  considered  judicious  by  Don  Andres  de  Arisa,  who  looked 
into  the  matter.  On  the  10th  I proceeded  on  my  return  route  for  my 
destination  by  the  way  just  indicated.  I spent  two  days  in  reaching 
the  village  of  Yavisa,  it  being  necessary  to  await  the  tides.  I stopped 
the  whole  of  the  12th,  waiting  to  have  two  pirogues  made  ready  for  the 
remainder  of  the  journey  by  water ; at  nine  o’clock  p.  m.  of  that  same 
day  we  again  proceeded  on  our  course.  Having  informed  Urrucliurchu 
that  the  governor  had  written  to  me  that  two  Indians  had  been  in  the 
vicinity  of  Puerto  Principe,  following  our  steps,  at  this  information  he 
was  much  vexed,  and  stated  that  these  Indians  were  Chucunas ; that 
they  were  waiting  for  us ; and  that  he  suspected  that  when  they  per- 
ceived we  did  not  return  by  the  route  we  had  come,  they  would  meet 
us  at  the  mouths  of  the  river  Fubuganti.  Upon  this  information  and 
foreseeing  danger,  I determined  to  return  and  to  dispatch  the  Captain 
Suspani  to  Carolina  with  the  parcels  of  letters  that  I was  conveying. 
This  arrangement  he  thought  advisable,  in  order  to  avoid  accident,  the 
blame  of  which  would  be  thrown  upon  him  in  spite  of  his  honest  inten- 
tions. 

MANUEL  MILLA,  Santa  Ma . 

Yavisa,  March  13, 1788. 


Most  Excellent  Sir:  Under  date  of  the  thirteenth  of  the  current 
month  from  Yavisa,  the  adjutant,  Don  Manuel  Milla,  states  to  me  the 
following: 

“By  the  annexed  diary  you  will  be  made  acquainted  with  all  that 
I have  done  as  well  as  with  the  motive  for  adopting  this  precaution. 
It  would  be  much  to  be  regretted  if,  after  having  succeeded  in  this  at- 
tempt, any  misfortune  should  happen  at  the  very  last  moment.  I can- 
not explain  this  more  fully,  because  Suspani  and  his  Indians  are  over- 
looking me;  but  as  soon  as  I arrive  at  Puerto  Principe  I will  do  so  more 
in  detail,  assuring  you  that  my  return  to  this  station  will  be  as  speedy 
as  possible. 

“ God  protect  your  excellency  for  many  years.  Yavisa,  March  13,  1788. 

“MANUEL  DE  MILLA,  Santa  Ma. 

“Senor  Don  Francisco  Fersen.” 

I communicate  to  your  excellency  the  accompanying  original  journal 
of  the  journey  of  this  officer,  whose  singular  merit  and  zeal  in  the  service 
has  been  manifested  on  this  important  occasion.  He  has  so  well  accom- 
plished his  purpose  that  I do  not  doubt  that  your  excellency  will  deem 
him  worthy  to  be  brought  under  the  notice  of  the  sovereign,  in  order 
that  he  may  obtain  through  the  royal  favor  the  reward  merited  by  such 
distinguished  services. 

God  protect  your  excellency  many  years.  Carolina,  March  24,  1788. 

FRANCISCO  DE  FERSEN. 

Most  Excellent  Senor  Don  Antonio  Cavallero  y Gorgora. 


No.  19. 

Don  Antonio  Caballero  y Gorgora  to  Don  Andres  de  Ariza. 

Most  Excellent  and  Most  Illustrious  Sir  : On  the  16th  of  the 
current  month  I informed  your  excellency  of  the  unexpected  return  of 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  33 


Don  Manuel  de  Milla  by  way  of  Panama.  This  officer  was  commissioned 
to  acquaint  your  excellency,  in  detail,  with  the  circumstances  that  have 
transpired  with  Captain  Suspani.  Being  doubtful  (now  that  he  has  al- 
tered his  route)  whether  the  knowledge  of  those  circumstances  which 
have  taken  place  may  not  be  delayed  in  reaching  your  excellency,  and 
knowing  that  they  ought  to  be  carefully  weighed  by  your  superior  judg- 
ment, so  that  you  can  form  a correct  opinion  of  the  fidelity  of  the  said 
Indian,  I make  the  following  communication  : 

In  the  first  place,  shortly  after  he  left  his  house  at  Sucubti  with  Milla, 
he  arrived  at  a road  or  opened  pathway,  which  I ordered  to  be  made  in 
the  month  of  November,  1786,  and  he  told  Milla  u This  is  the  path  opened 
by  the  people  from  Principe.77  On  this  authority  Milla  informed  me  that 
my  troops  had  opened  a good  road  almost  as  far  as  the  aforesaid  village 
and  up  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain  range.  I replied  that  through  want 
of  guides  we  are  still  unfamiliar  with  it.  Milla,  likewise,  informed  me 
that  Suspani,  mistrustful  of  the  Indians  of  Moreti  and  of  the  Chucunas, 
had  deviated,  for  his  safety,  from  the  direct  road  at  different  points. 

The  Indians  of  Arnachucuna  (a  gorge  that  discharges  its  waters  at 
Sucubti)  showed  themselves  openly  to  be  our  friends.  From  the  neigh- 
borhood of  this  gorge  there  accompanied  him,  among  others,  the  Chev- 
aliers Yxpoli  and  Metecernia : to  whom,  for  this  act  of  loyalty,  I sent 
as  a present  some  pieces  of  cloth  and  cutlass  each,  intimating  to  them 
that  I was  desirous  of  being  acquainted  with  them,  to  pay  them  even 
greater  facilities. 

I have  endeavored  to  show  myself  towards  Suspani  and  his  two  rela- 
tives who  accompanied  him  kind  as  well  as  generous  ; in  return  for 
which,  by  civilities  and  expressions  of  gratitude,  they  have  given  the 
plainest  proof  of  loyalty.  I made  known  to  Suspani  my  desire  to  make 
the  acquaintance  of  his  wife  and  children,  in  order  to  pay  them  civilities 
also.  I mentioned  them  by  the  name  Milla  had  given  to  them,  and  I 
added  thereto  a name  of  my  own,  with  which  he  was  much  pleased,  and 
offered  to  bring  them  with  him  within  the  third  or  fourth  moon.  After 
which,  and  as  an  evidence  of  my  sincerity,  I presented  these  children 
with  some  gifts,  such  as  cambrics,  chintzes,  kerchiefs,  looking-glasses, 
and  one  doubloon  for  each  person,  besides  some  dolls  made  of  earthen- 
ware for  the  little  ones.  I gave  to  Suspani  a coverlet  or  pouch  embroid- 
ered at  Quito,  some  gold  studs  for  the  wrists,  and  a gratuity  of  an  ounce 
of  gold.  I granted  liberty  to  some  prisoners  who  solicited  it  through 
his  intervention.  I also  remunerated  the  interpreter  and  the  other  two 
Indians,  already  mentioned,  with  another  doubloon  each.  To  our  friend 
Milla,  the  first  who  had  traversed  the  Isthmus,  I presented,  as  a reward, 
half  a dozen  ounces  of  gold.  These  presents,  with  those  already  mentioned, 
produced  in  all  of  them  an  overwhelming  sense  of  pleasure  and  confi- 
dence. When  they  took  their  departure  they  offered  to  send  to  me  forth- 
with from  Fubaganti,  Suspani’s  brother,  in  order  that  I might  make  his 
acquaintance,  and  that  he  might  give  me  notice  of  the  progress  of  their 
journey. 

In  obedience  to  my  orders  the  inhabitants  of  the  villages  belonging 
to  this  government  thiough  which  he  passed  received  Milla  with  the 
greatest  kindness  and  civility  and  disinterested  confidence  which  Sus- 
pani could  possibly  wish  for.  At  Pinorgana,  which  is  distant  from  Yavisa 
more  than  two  leagues,  all  the  Indians  assembled  together  with  the 
cazique,  paying  many  compliments  to  Suspani  and  to  his  wife,  so  that 
everything  has  been  mutually  gratifying;  in  consequence  of  which,  as 
reported,  he  made  them  a very  feeling  speech,  assuring  them  of  his  un- 
alterable loyalty,  and  saying  that  he  considered  himself  allied  with  the 
II.  Ex.  Boc.  113 3 


34  INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 

Spaniards  as  intimately  “ as  pitch  is  with  timber.”  When  Milla  resolved 
to  return  from  the  mouth  of  the  River  Tapisa,  at  two  leagues  distance 
from  the  village  of  Yavisa,  Suspani  returned  also,  in  order  to  request  a 
certificate  from  the  commandant  of  the  post  that  he  had  delivered  him 
safe  and  sound  5 so  that  in  the  event  of  Milla’s  death  no  charge  could  be 
brought  against  him.  I suppose  that  he  will  have  reached  Carolina  on 
Holy  Tuesday,  the  18th  of  the  current  month. 

Suspani  made  a very  ambitious  display,  not  only  of  the  favors  he  had 
received  from  your  excellency,  but  likewise  of  the  title  of  “ Captain” 
with  which  he  was  invested,  causing  it  to  be  read  in  an  audible  voice 
in  all  places  through  which  he  passed,  and  even  in  my  presence. 

He  has  told  me  that  even  should  the  Moretis  and  Chucunas  not  wil- 
lingly accept  our  friendship,  he  would  compel  them  to  do  it  by  force.  I 
doubt,  however,  his  power,  because  he  has  shown  much  apprehension 
for  his  own  life.  He  might  do  it  with  ease  by  the  assistance  of  the  king’s 
troops,  and  the  more  easily  when  I have  a road  opened  towards  the  Chu- 
cunas, to  within  a short  distance  of  their  village,  on  level  ground. 

It  is  reported  that  the  two  Indian  tribes  referred  to  are  displeased, 
because  they  were  not  consulted  as  to  an  amicable  arrangement,  in  order 
that  they  might  enjoy  its  benefits  in  the  same  way  that  Suspani  and  the 
other  captains  are  doing,  through  the  generosity  and  kindness  of  your 
excellency,  who  has  given  the  presents  to  the  families  of  those  who  con- 
sented to  the  said  amicable  arrangements.  This  indicates  a jealous  hope 
of  enjoying  similar  advantages  rather  than  an  obstinate  opposition  to 
us.  These  Indians,  moreover,  state  the  necessity  for  your  excellency  to 
open  an  extensive  road  through  this  country,  in  order  to  carry  letters. 
This  they  are  willing  to  do  without  the  Spaniards  coming  to  examine 
their  territories — a privilege  which  their  ancestors  never  have  permitted. 
All  these  expressions  of  their  sentiments  rather  manifest  weakness  than 
arrogance. 

The  Lord  of  armies  has  been  pleased  to  take  our  part,  and  by  His 
sovereign  assistance  the  greatest  difficulties  will  be  made  smooth. 

Suspani  showed  great  fear  upon  approaching  Principe,  and  made  Milla 
proceed  in  advance,  in  order  to  guard  against  surprise,  telling  him  that 
we  were  always  upon  the  lookout  in  this  vicinity  against  the  Indians, 
and  he  thought  it  prudent  to  give  notice  beforehand  of  Milla’s  approach 
lest  we  should  take  his  life.  All  along  the  route  by  which  they  passed, 
Suspani  pointed  out  to  this  officer  the  places  where  he  had  had  encoun- 
ters with  our  troops,  relating  to  him  in  detail  all  that  had  transpired. 

When  he  saw  the  captain  of  the  guard  and  inspectors  of  roads,  Gabriel 
Morales,  he  said,  “I  thought  that  this  man  was  dead,  because  I once 
shot  at  him  when  he  was  very  close  to  me.”  See  the  journal  of  the  2d 
of  August,  1786,  drawn  up  by  Captain  Morales.  When  he  crossed  the 
large  interior  bay  of  Bocachica,  in  front  of  the  moated  house  of  Sutu- 
ganti,  he  said,  “They  built  this  here  because  in  one  of  my  excursions  I 
sank  a canoe  here  which  was  going  to  Panama  laden  with  fruit.”  In 
passing  in  front  of  the  River  Tagenia,  he  said,  u Up  this  river  I burned 
the  village,  (a  provincial  village  or  Tival  village,)  the  population  of  which 
were  blacks,”  (negroes.)  See  the  communication  that  I made  on  this 
subject  in  January,  1785.  To  Captain  Morales  Suspani  said:  “Why  did 
our  troops  infest  his  river  so  much  that  even  when  they  had  entered 
others  they  always  fell  back  upon  Sucubti  to  commit  hostilities,  and  not 
upon  the  people  of  the  neighboring  territories?” 

To  which  Morales  replied,  it  was  because  we  had  ascertained  that  it 
was  from  this  river  alone  came  the  Indians  to  molest  our  villages  and 
boats. 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  35 

All  which  I submit  to  the  superior  understanding  of  your  excellency, 
persuaded  that  not  only  will  they  be  well  received,  but  probably  that 
these  advices  may  be  found  useful,  so  that  you  may  be  able  by  means 
of  them  to  form  your  future  arrangements. 

God  protect  vour  excellencv  for  many  years.  Darien,  March  26,  1788. 

Don  ANTONIO  CABALLERO  Y GORGORA. 

Most  Excellent  Sir  Senor  Andres  de  Ariza. 


Washington,  February  2, 1870. 

Sir  : I have  the  honor  to  transmit  to  the  department  herewith,  a letter 
from  Brevet  Major  General  O.  O.  Howard,  which  is  accompanied  by  a 
description  of  a coal  mine  in  the  State  of  Panama,  one  day’s  journey 
from  the  railroad,  and  having  a water  communication  with  the  sea. 

The  description  of  this  mine  is  drawn  up  by  Rev.  Richard  Temple,  late 
British  chaplain  at  Aspinwall,  now  settled  in  the  State  of  New  York. 
He  is  the  present  proprietor  of  the  mine. 

The  importance  of  this  discovery,  should  the  coal  mine  prove  to  be  a 
valuable  one,  is  very  great.  The  subject  has  commanded  the  interest 
and  attention  of  the  government  at  a former  period. 

I therefore  respectfully  suggest,  that  these  papers  be  added  to  my 
last  communication  concerning  the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  which  has  recently 
been  called  for. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

C.  H.  DAYIS, 

Fear- Admiral. 


Hon.  George  M.  Robeson, 

Secretary  of  the  Navy , Washington , T>.  C. 


Washington,  D.  C.,  January  21,  1870. 

Dear  Sir:  I have  long  known  Mr.  Richard  Temple,  and  take  great 
pleasure  in  commending  him  to  you  and  in  stating  that  his  statements 
can  be  implicitly  relied  upon. 

I thought  it  might  be  of  importance  to  the  government  to  ascertain 
the  character  of  the  mines  of  which  he  speaks. 

Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

O.  O.  HOWARD, 

Brevet  Major  General  U.  S.  A. 

Admiral  Davis. 


The  discovery  of  coal  on  the  Isthmus  of  Panama. 

The  existence  of  coal  on  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  has  always  been  a 
subject  of  great  interest,  both  to  science  and  commerce.  About  three 
years  since  Captain  Daniel  George,  a citizen  of  the  State  of  Panama, 
discovered  a large  deposit  of  excellent  semi-bituminous  coal  on  the  Rio 
Indio,  (the  river  of  the  Indians,)  in  the  territory  of  the  department  of 
Code,  district  of  Penonome,  sovereign  State  of  Panama. 

Extensive  grants  of  land  were  made  to  Captain  George  by  the  State 
of  Panama,  which  he  has  legally  transformed  to  Richard  Temple,  the 
present  proprietor. 


36  INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  MINES. 

1.  Uvero. — The  coal  at  this  mine  crops  out  in  different  places  and  in 
different  forms.  The  well  or  shaft  was  dug  here  near  the  base  of  the 
hill,  which  is  about  one  hundred  feet  high,  and  lightly  wooded.  The 
dip  of  the  seam  at  the  well  seems  perpendicular  5 while  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  hill  it  appears  again,  and  there  the  seam  runs  horizontally. 

2.  Iaboncillo. — This  mine  is  described  as  a wonderful  deposit  of  coal. 
The  vein  crops  out  on  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Indio,  wrhere  it  rises  about 
thirty  feet,  and  extends  up  and  down  the  stream  for  about  three  hundred 
yards.  The  canoe  can  be  put  close  alongside.  The  hill  on  which  the 
well  was  dug  rises  about  sixty  feet  from  the  banks  of  the  river. 

3.  JEsterial. — This  mine  is  situated  on  the  bank  of  a small  stream  that 
flows  into  the  River  Esterial,  which  also  empties  into  the  Rio  Indio. 
Near  the  small  stream,  where  the  coal  is  found  there  rises  a hill  about 
two  hundred  feet  high.  The  dip  of  the  vein  is  about  60°,  the  thickness 
of  the  seam  about  six  feet.  The  coal  as  seen  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
stream  seems  to  run  in  the  direction  of  Guinea,  with  the  dip  of  00°. 
The  land  is  quite  level  between  these  two  mines. 

4.  Guinea. — This  mine  is  at  the  side  of  a thinly- wooded  hill,  of  about 
fifty  or  sixty  feet  high.  The  vein  appears  about  nine  feet  thick,  with 
but  little  dip,  being  nearly  horizontal.  The  general  course  runs  west. 

THE  MINES  IN  GENERAL. 

The  foregoing  descriptions  were  given  by  Captain  George  from  mem- 
ory. I should  judge  from  them  and  from  what  lie  said  otherwise,  that 
what  has  been  granted  to  him  as  u The  Rio  Indio  coal  mine,”  consisting, 
as  expressed  in  the  grant,  of  four  distinct  veins  or  mines,  is,  in  reality, 
but  a single  underlying  stratum  thrown  up  into  different  forms  by  some 
great  internal  movement  in  former  years.  That  there  are  immense  coal 
deposits  there  seems  evident  proof  from  the  statements  of  all  who  have 
been  there.  The  freedom  with  which  some  of  the  larger  and  better 
specimens  burn  leads  to  the  reasonable  conclusion  that  the  coal  is  of  a 
valuable  quality,  that  is,  when  taken  from  such  depths  as  to  secure  fair 
specimens. 


MODES  OF  COMMUNICATION. 

1.  Road  f rom  Penonome  to  Aspimvall. — There  is  a road  from  the  inte- 
rior city  of  Penonome  to  Aspinwall,  passing  by  the  mines.  It  is  a cattle 
road,  chiefly  used  in  summer.  From  the  mines  to  Penonome  is  a two- 
days7  ride  on  mules;  and  from  the  mines  to  Aspinwall,  one  day  and  a 
half. 

2.  Down  the  Rio  Indio. — The  streams  from  the  mines  fall  into  the  Rio 
Indio.  This  is  a river,  in  ordinary  water,  of  sufficient  size  for  large 
canoes,  with  a heavy  current  for  nine  months  of  the  year,  when  full. 
The  port  is  narrow  and  only  adapted  for  light-draught  vessels.  A11  engi- 
neer alone  could  decide  whether  the  outlet  could  be  made  available  or 
not.  My  own  opinion  is  that  the  river  can  be  made  available  for  at  least 
a portion  of  the  year,  but  the  port  lies  on  the  Atlantic  side. 

3.  By  the  way  of  Chagres . — From  the  mines  to  Gatlin,  where  one  strikes 
the  railroad,  is  a day’s  journey.  Flat-bottom  boats  can  go  down  during 
nine  months  of  the  year.  The  country  is  everywhere  heavily  timbered. 
Gatlin  would  be  the  cheapest  and  best  temporary  outlet. 

4.  By  the  ivay  of  Chorrera. — There  is  no  open  road  to  Chorrera,  which 


INTEROCEANIC  COMMUNICATION  AT  AMERICAN  ISTHMUS.  37 

is  probably  the  nearest  point  on  the  Pacific  coast;  but  Indians  speak  of 
going  there  through  the  forest  in  two  days  on  foot.  There  is  a large 
stream  that  runs  from  the  direction  of  the  mines  capable  of  floating 
small  steamers.  Of  this,  however,  nothing  can  be  satisfactorily  ascer- 
tained until  a complete  survey  be  made.  In  January,  February,  and 
March,  Indians  could  be  sent  through  the  forest  and  the  best  information 
be  obtained. 

Population . — The  entire  population  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  mines 
consists  of  Indians,  (Choices.)  They  are  quiet,  peaceable,  and  industri- 
ous, quite  unlike  the  worthless  population  of  the  coast.  They  number, 
I should  think,  about  three  thousand. 

Wages. — They  would  probably  ask  from  sixty  cents  to  a dollar  per 
day,  and  find  themselves. 

Living.— Living  is  very  cheap  when  the  productions  of  the  country 
are  used.  There  is  good  beef,  with  fruits  and  vegetables  in  immense 
variety. 

Climate.— The  climate  is  much  superior  to  the  coast, 

Seasons. — There  are  about  eight  months  of  the  year  called  rainy 
months,  and  four  usually  without  rain, 

H,  Ex,  Doc,  113- — A 


O 


